Airhead

A job best left to the experienced, it cant be done that easily and will require a complete engine strip...sorry to p*ss on your bonfire

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Hi Mits!, welcome to the forum, where in Lancs are you?

the side stand switch isnt working, as i said look for a loose connection!! if there arent any loose connections try disconnecting it and short it out somehow

Sounds like the side stand switch, have a look at the connections, maybe one has come adrift

Yes its annoying when this happens, make sure the plug gaps haven gone too wide, have you got a gas hob? if so, hold the plug with pliers and burn them dry again. is the choke working, i dont know the bike but does it look to be operating on the carbs properly

Try switching to 'prime' on your fuel tap, are the plugs wet with fuel?

Thats a good idea and will save a heck of a lot of work, take the engine to a good compressor and air line. You will have a job lubing the bearings, so just pour two stroke oil into the cavity, about 1/2 pint, then tip engine to each side for a while before tipping it up-side down again to drain off excess oil

Nice example there Jon, looks a tidy bike for its age, obviously been looked after.

Well I Know Now, Its Something I was Watching Way Back...GOTCHA THE GUYS BOUGHT IT PURELY BECAUSE HE SAW ONE SUPPOSEDLY SELL FOR £132 SO THINKS HE CAN CASH IN

Hi Ian, welcome to the forum, your bike isn't that complicated but you don't know the history, the clutch will have stuck through standing unused for a long time. First check the oil level and top up as necessary. Then start the engine and let it run until its nice and hot (not just warm). Stop the engine, select third gear by rocking the bike back and forth as you move through the gears; then pull the clutch lever and rock the bike back and forth vigorously until the clutch frees itself. When all is well with the clutch and while the oil is hot, drain it all out and put new oil in, you dont know how long its been in there, its a simple engine so you wont need to buy any fancy oil for it, mineral oil will do.

Wahey, looky wot i just bought, latest model (2008), Xmas pressie from my missus

If its not too much bother i would charge your battery for a couple of hours, since youve run it down with previous failed attempts, either that or jumper it from your car battery

Sounds like you have all the ingredients to start, cant you enlist a couple of helpers for a push (bump) start? If you cant i suggest you squirt some oil through the spark plug hole on each pot, this will help the rings get a seal for compression!

Hi Thomas, welcome to the forum.

Thanks guys...Glad u like I agree and thats what i did too, a clear laquer on top of it all, make sure you buy a petrol proof one though, I didnt so i'm glad i didnt do the fuel tank but when i did the job i didnt realise it could be a problem. If you do go the whole hog it will be the final laquer coat that you have to spend the most time polishing.

John, not familiar but i would be suspecting the crankshaft primary gear and any woodruff key that it locates on, check this area IMO

Isnt that an engine strip down then to get the bits out of the crank cases? As far as the 400 idea goes, i wouldnt bother, the carbs and exhausts are different between the models i think. i doubt it was your brothers fault though, there must have been something wrong for that to happen, maybe it ran lean or the oil delivery isnt correct

Heres a diagram, you will have to click on it to magnify it so you can read it properly, you may notice that my connections on the relay are different to Darren's - - no matter it will work with them both ways Automotive Relay

You need to wet & dry them (wet) back to a smooth finish, then spray with plastic primer, then wet & dry the primer (Fine & wet) dry thoroughly and spray with top coat. allow top coat to dry for at least 3 weeks before any final polishing with T Cut and a damp cloth. You can indeed get a good finish with rattle cans, that is what i used on mine

is it a completely new pipe and silencer or just a silencer. As has been said, you will most likely need to re jet the carb but unlike the previous post i would guess that its running lean wich would require a larger jet. A plug chop will tell the story though so thats the way to go

It all depends on the mounting holes, if it fits then why not give it a go.

A good quality semi-synthetic oil would do. but its possible the damage has already been done, especially as you commented on the burning smell. For now i would go down the route of adjustment as has been said, get a little free play at the lever first with the cable adjuster, about 5mm at the lever end, then if you still think theres a problem youre looking at clutch adjustmen. If it is slipping youre not doing yourself any favours by riding it.

Ah thats a shame, ok you can either A; Take them back to Halfords with the receipt (unwanted gift) and then buy the Oxford ones ...or B: Fit a relay from an ignition on live. its a bit of a rigmarole but has been done before and best if youre handy and have a bit of knowlege of things 'Electrick' over to you

Are they the market leaders 'Oxford Hot Grips' ? If so read your istructions carefully because i have heard that the controller will somehow switch them off somehow when they are not being used, dont ask me how because i dont know, but if its true it will save fitting a relay. Wiring instruction will come with the product i expect. i'm gonne get myself some soon so will be going down this route myself! Yep, just read through the insructions and the controller will switch the grips off when the battery voltage gets to 11.5 volts, which they say is enough to re start the engine!...Read it Here