Airhead

Hey...Watch your language I,m sure I've heard more though...isnt there one about streetfighters?...

Could they be for an accelerator pump on one of the carbs, to connect this device to the other carbs? This is useful Here

At a guess on the day your mate adjusted it, you inadvertantly had the choke opened slightly, this would increase throttle opening. So the next time youre out on the bike you use the choke to start, only this time you take the choke off properly and the engine stalls because it was adjusted when the choke was slightly on...a possibility?

The best way to find out is to get hold of parts lists for both bikes to see how many of the two bikes share, I dont know but would think that the price of buying all that XT stuff would be very expensive and time consuming as they are an increasingly rare but popular classic, but the SR500 is a terrific bike (not speaking from experience here) enjoy it as it is or sell it and buy an XT!

Good find Drewpy...

Thats a bit extreme, you should have cleaned your old one out, that would cost nothing, other that a carb cleaner spray!

Tom, youre not making youself clear, if you want help try to be more descriptive in your questions. Otherwise join black to black...red to red...yellow to yellow...and so on. you asked for a diagram and I went to the trouble of finding one, scanning it and posting it in my reply...Then you say its of no use...to me, thats frustrating!

Looks fantastic, pic's a little dark though, I thought you would have took some pics of your own, so then.....looks like Elvira's days are numbered.

Come on then Goff...show us the pics

Good shout John

Hi there and welcome to the forum, Cant help with the bars as I dont know your shops in Oz, but shouldnt be too difficult to source some, have you looked at Wemoto. Anyway as for the brake, you should be able to push the little actuating arm on the backplate and it should return under the infuence of the springs on the brake shoes, if it feels very stiff, then it is no doubt seized up in the hole, if this is the case you wil have to strip it down and clean and grease the the brake cam where it passes through the backplate. before you strip it down, mark the actuating arm in relation the the splines that its on so you get it back in the correct place. ...Paul

Hi Tom, welcome to the forum...You may find this useful

Hi Luke, yes get the bike you would feel good on, its no use being negative about falling off, like yamahead said do the training and learn fast, then enjoy your bike this summer.

I see what you mean now, I would send it back for refund, see my email.

Your ignition is different..points not CDI, the timing is the same, so stick with what you have because it would cost a fortune to convert.

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I think that welded bracket is the same welded bracket you have on your front pipe, i cant believe they expect you to take a saw to your fron pipe to fit these mufflers, I would get in touch, if thats the case you will have to consider whether youre prepared to do that, they do look great but i wouldnt saw any of my £150 pipe to fit it!! For pictures Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

No thats not right, the sticker should be visible, is there a wrap round bracket?, as for the front being too long i dont know, have a look at this Here does yours look like this?

Not heard of a problem with these, whats wrong Darren?...any chance of a photo?

Stiff (seized) link, had the same on my bandit, put the bike on mainstand if you have one, turn the rear wheel and look out for a link or links that are not straight, if you find any grab either side with pliers and see if its seized, theres no cure other than a new chain, believe me...I tried If it is that, i bet you wont let it happen again

This might be a difficult one to solve, Firstly, have you got a haynes manual or another manual, that will tell you how to set up the ignition timing, it does however requre a dial test indicator and spark plug adapter to set it to the required 2mm BTDC. I'm a bit confused about this though because you say you checked it with a strobe and it was spot on, so in suspecting the timing you may be barking up the wrong tree. It might be a missfire at 3500/4000 rpm and that could be caused by almost anything, could be an air leak somewhere someting blocked or dirty in the carb faulty CDI faulty spark plug worn piston rings / bore not sure about the air gap you mention, I wouldnt have thought this is an adjustable setting, but if it is then yes maybe its even this, to what extent did you strip and clean the carb if you screw the mixture screw in and out does it have an affect on the idle speed?

Nice Who did it?

Here

Might take you a couple of hours longer Steve

This could be caused by several things Loose Cylinder head bolts Loose Cylinder to Crankcase Loose connection on carb to reed block connections