Airhead

Here it is.

Its easy to say he was drifting right, but that may have been his instinct to go right at first, perhaps he was hoping the car would not go so far right as it did do thereby blocking his escape, or maybe he had a wheel locked...we all know that bikes do drift when wheels are locked especially if they leaned over a bit , we arent to know.

No way he could have avoided that, going too fast to react in time! He did his best by braking so hard he stood the bike up on the front wheel before contact but carrying way too much speed.

Hi James, I would start with 10% bigger than standard and take it from there, you could always ask DEP, they should know this.

I live there, where it was filmed, Royston Vasey...aka Hadfield Theres a few nutters here who'll never leave

fight...fight...fight!!!

Hello and welcome to the YOC forum Chrissie

Welcome to the YOC forum Paul.

Solvol Autosol

I like the heat it up bit but dont try it until you have tried with no heat and dont overdo it, you dont want to damage the piston seals or boil the fluid, also remove some fluid from the reservoir first, to allow for a bit of expansion. Take care not to get brake fluid on to paintwork. Another idea is, if you are going to use an easy out, all well and good, but if youre using a mole grip device, to prevent crushing the hollow nipple push a drill shank of the correct size into the bleed hole before grasping with the grips, this will prevent crushing and mis-shaping the nipple...good luck with it

Bang on, you tried it ther way...now do it yours...sounds like a plan to me

I saw the video of this on the news last night, immediately after appearing in camera shot he went round a left hand bend and i couldnt believe he was doing anything like the 120mph stated, he wasnt even leaned over...opinions sought

...soon be christmas!

Hi effit, its not a hard job normally but corrosion and siezed pivot pins can make it that way. First remove the split pin and slacken the nut on the bottom pivot bolt With a socket and wrench on the opposite side try to turn the bolt back and forth to check it is free to move Once you have it moving, back off the nut until it is flush with end of the pivot pin Place the bike on blocks or something under the sump guard (I use a crate with a wooden block) so that the bike stands upright and the rear wheel is off the ground Remove the rear wheel, seat and fuel tank (I suggest you remove the swing arm complete with the shock absorber/damper) now drift out the bottom pivot bolt ***(see note)*** Remove the bolt holding the end of the shock absorber in the frame spine Withdraw the swing arm and shock absorber Finally remove the pivot pin attaching the shock to the swing arm, this is likely to be seized and you may have to enlist some help to hold the pin between the open jaws of a vice while you drive out the pin *** you may have to support the frame against something solid such as a wall by wedging a stout piece of wood or something between the two, this will stop the frame from flexing and so your hammer blows will not be absorbed and therefore wasted*** if you get my drift...no pun intended

Wouldnt bother me, sounds minor, oil the bore and piston on re assembly, when you first start the bike, hold the oil pump pulley wide open either by pulling the cable outer away from the adjuster tube in the case or by turning the pulley and hold it fully open until you are happy that the oil is primed into the carb spigot

Sounds to me like a possible faulty ignition switch, disconnect the switch and try again with it disconnected, if your bike is a magneto ignition system the sparks should work with it disconnected

Nice thick coat of global warming there Tom, Hope weve seen the last of it but not holding my breath though.

Hello again, what was wrong with the regulator burn out then?

Aye...Friday 29th of February... if youre lucky Welcome to the forum rob, dont you just love the smell of that two stroke smoke

Has your oil pump got a white plastic pinion at one end, if you are supposed to turn this pinion while applying slight pressure by pressing on the nut that holds the cable pulley. When the gap between the pulley and the body of the pump is at its maximum measure with a feeler gauge and compare to specifications in your manual, add or remove shims to correct. Also make sure that the pip on the pulley aligns with the pin in the pump plunger when the throttle is fully closed, adjust with cable adjuster to correct.

Unfortunately for those who dont know, pininggas's new bike was written off with only 700 miles on it See Here

Looks a minter, nice example there

They are American pre Focus Type Here On te options drop down you will see 6V 35w/35w

Hi there, welcome to the YOC forum. yes we would love to see your pride and joy, the answer to posting pics is in the FAQ's section ...Paul

Welcome to the YOC forum Helen