Airhead

so does the crankcase seal run on a shoulder on this gear, and now you have a groove in this shoulder?...not familiar

Hi pots, dont like the sound of the groove you describe, the only real way is to pressure test your engine (and i dont mean a compression test), I suspect your transmission oil will smell of petrol in due course. there is a dedicated rdlc forum, our Mervin will hopefully guide you there. ...Paul

one of those being UK PLC !!! And it seems that quite a number are abusing their expenses accounts, its no wonder that people are losing the will to vote.

its time to strip & clean the carb, check for water in the float bowl or blockage in the main jet, failing that do a general strip and clean routine using carb cleaner (avoid this on rubber parts) and compressed air. This is a useful read Here

First check for a good strong flow of fuel from the petcock.

Hi busa boy, this is info for a 2003 model ...Paul MAINTENANCE SPECIFICATIONS SPEC 2-6 Model TZR50 / X-POWER Carburettor: Identification mark PHBN12HS/Dellorto Main jet (M.J.) # 88 Air screw turns 2-1/8 Fuel level 5 mm Float height (F.H.) 14.3 ± 0.5 mm Idling speed 1850 ± 150 rpm Idling jet # 32 Starter jet # 45 Air jet 100 Needle jet A13 Jet needle 210FQ Section 4 Bypass 1 0.80 Valve seat size 150 Reed valve: Valve thickness 0.3 mm Valve stopper height 6.28 m Valve bending limit 0.1 ~ 0.7 mm Lubrication system: Autolube pump: Piston diameter 2.5 mm Minimum flow at 3000 rpm 6 cc/h Maximum flow at 3000 rpm 28 cc/h Pulley adjusting wark By keeping the throttle twist grip closed Cooling system: Radiator core width 160.0 mm Radiator core height 160.0 mm Radiator core thickness 32.0 mm Radiator cap opening pressure 0.9 kg/cm2 Reservoir tank capacity 0.71 L Water pump type Single-suction centrifugal pump

No...Not Really!!... ... ...

Works both ways mate, you get pissed off if just ONE of your questions doesnt get answered , and only for two days, sometimes I get pissed off too, when I answer someones request for help/advise and they dont come back with a reply, especially if i've put some effort in to find an answer, and believe me...That happens lots of times...the usual thing to do is 'bump' your post.

Doesnt sound good does it!. Best get the barrel off and check the piston, bore, rings, little and big end bearings....

ok your carb is different from my 175 version, on mine the needle jet screws out and there is a series of small holes drilled into the side which need to be kept clean, I can no loger advise on yours as its different but I would guess it knocks out, whether it has holes in that too i dunno so perhaps best left alone pending further investigation. As for speed dont expect a lot, that wasnt what they were designed for, the 175 will do around 69 mph if you wring its neck, this can be increased with sprocket sizes and tailwinds or reduced with headwinds etc, dunno what the 125 will do but the 175 will be quicker off the mark

no, quite the opposite, compression gauges measure pressure up to around 200 psi, carb sync gauges measure vacuum as found in the carb manifold.

+1....RainEx is terrific stuff, only works when you are going fast (above 55 ish) enough for the wind to blow the water droplets away, great on motorways.

dont be tempted to mess with the oil pump, it involves adding or removing shims, IMO a recipe for disaster and a heat seized motor. maybe your problem lies in the carb and fuelling , maybe it is a misfire points/condenser? or is it a CDI. why wouldnt the needle jet come out? its got a fairly big hexagon on it, is it jammed and in danger of breaking? the thing is theres lots of little holes in the side of it that usually block up with gunge a compression test would be good also as blowby will cause erratic running because you will have a polluted fuel/air charge, one last thing, to eliminate float height as a problem, switch off the fuel tap when bogging occurs and see if things get better as the fuel level in the carb drops lower. ok thats me out of ideas

As Tony says, you measure from beneath the gasket, remove the gasket as you do so, you will notice a cut out in the lip (see photo), this is where your ruler will sit and thats why there is a cut out there, spring un compressed as has been said

Carb has a 130 jet as standard, has yours got a 160 in?, sounds big...be interesting to hear how it runs with that. so you had no oil tank...dont forget to bleed and prime the pump when the time comes.

Ok so you have the battery housing if you go down the pod filter route, its just a matter of going up slightly on the main jet, possibly a 135 or 140, buy both they are not expensive and start with the biggest first. or bide your time and search for an airbox, beware though that you get one for a square sect swing arm as they differ from the earlier round sect swing arm models. they do come up on ebay now and again, although not often.

the airbix is also the battery housing, so your best bet is to get one rather than go down the pod filter route, is your bike the square swing arm version?

Youre 130 jet should be there or there abouts, I would go for a 125 next but maybe a good carb strip and clean would be in order too, blow out the jets and passageways with compressed air, in the side of the needle jet you will see a series of tiny holes, make sure theses are clear also check for wear on the needle and in the needle jet (shown by ovalling in the top), make sure the air jet isnt blocked too, the easiest way to prove that is turn the mixture screw to just closed, the motor should stumble as there isnt enough air in the mixture if so then air jet is good. Finally try to get main jet sorted with wide open throttle and plug chopping before messing with the needle position, do this after main jet is sorted, is it running as starndard with air filter and exhaust too?

Hi Tom, have you tried Here great people to deal with from what i've been told

Hi and welcome

Hi Phil, there is a filter screen in the bowl of your fuel tap, switch the tap off and unscrew the bowl then carefully pick out the screen, while its off place a container under it and switch it on to check for a good flow from tank. sounds like your main jet is a bit big yes...can you see the ID number os the carb? ...Paul

Hello Jesta, 24-7....joure joking...

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS SPEC 2-1 Model TZR50 / X-POWER Model code number 5WX Frame serial number Yamaha UTLRA031000000001 MBK UTLRA032000000001 Dimensions: Total length 2007 mm Total width 675 mm Total height 1065 mm Height of the seat 815 mm Distance between axles 1330 mm Minimum ground clearance 144 mm Basic weight: With oil and full fuel tank 124.2 kg. Minimum turning radius 2900 mm Engine: Type of engine 2 stroke, petrol, liquid cooled Admission system Reed valve Cylinder arrangement Single cylinder, slanting forwards Cylinder capacity 49.7 cm3 Bore x stroke 40.3 x 39 mm Compression ratio 6.85:1 Starting system Electric Lubrication system Independent lubrication Motor oil Type Yamaha 2 stroke oil or oil for air-cooled 2 stroke engines Capacity 1.35 L Transmission oil: Type Engine oil SAE 10W30 SE type Capacity: Regular oil change 0.75 L Total amount 0.82 L Capacity of coolant: Including all routes 0.7 L Air filter: Type Damp element SPECIFICATIONS GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Maybe the carbs just ran out of fuel, you really need to get the petcock fixed before looking for other problems