Airhead

Nice... ...

mornin Steve

Hey drewps, if only city could be that shite eh?

and done again...

Dont like where this is going now, Rich has aknowleged the title wasnt good...way back, lets not get into any trans atlantic skirmishes guys...

Mike first go to the link i sent you, Goffs post about pics, Goff has given you the link to Photobucket, hit the link and open your own account

Mike its actually been posted in the FAQ's Here If you need any help just ask...

The only voltage that would be likely to cause that much discomfort is HT (High Tension) voltage, this can be as high as 30,000 Volts. it is the voltage that gives a spark at the spark plug, have a spray round the ignition coil and HT lead with WD40, if that cures it then get a replacement ignition coil or if youre up to it replace the HT lead in your existing one.

A thin piece of paper should really be good enough, the normal method would be to use a hand rolled cigerette paper. If you want to use a multi meter you will have to switch it to the ohms range because your bike is a magneto operated ignition system so will not have voltage across the open points like a battery ignition system would. I would prefer to use an analog meter (one with a pointer) rather than a digital one, set to the 200 ohms range. While you are at it check your points are not burned and pitted, if so replace them and the condenser.

you can get a coil from Yamaha but will cost loads and to be honest I dont think its that or worth spending silly money on it yet, you can also get a coil from electrex world, source coil 1 and 2 will cost a mere £44 posted . Ive just bought me a set but source coil 2 is high at 15.3 ohms (out of spec) and source coil 1 is low at 388 ohms (in spec though), so you can see why it isnt something to rush into, I honestly dont know how much it matters either. Options to consider are Try it with the air filter removed. Does it need a de-coke, is the exhaust port getting made up? is the expansion pipe free flowing, try the vacuum cleaner test, seal the vacuum cleaner against the manifold, you should not get a huge difference in tone, if you do it indicates blockages within. Have you tried a new spark plug? Pressure test your engine (see my topic "pressure testing") Alternatively, place the crankcase breather in a jar of water, run the bike and rev it, watch for bubbles, Then remove the oil filler cap and does it smell of fuel? ...Note The bubble test wont be effective while this filler cap is out! this is a crude test of the RH crank seal. With engine running spray WD40 through the gaps in the flywheel aim at the LH crank seal, listen for a change in engine sound / speed, this is a crude test of the LH crank seal Do an engine compression test, not the same as above, unless you can feel lots of compression through the kick starter. Check your ignition timing, the true test is static using a dial gauge and stand, however you could do it with a strobe lamp if you power the strobe from a 12v battery At this stage you may as well look at the HT coil readings too, primary 1.0 ohm...15%, secondary 5.9k ohm...20% These tests will check the general health of your engine with little cost

Would it help if you had a look Here at the two bikes, see if you can tell this way? ...Paul

I like that, where do you get them from then

Dunno but 'Prime' gives a direct feed to carbs without the need for the engine to be running and hence the vacuum developed to open the fuel cock under normal conditions. The reason for this is if the bike has been run dry of fuel or carbs have been stripped etc....Hope im not telling you to 'suck eggs with this' ...Paul

Hi just had a google, you sure its not 4BL ? That model code refers to a DTR

Welcome to the forum franky...

This is how to do it ...

The figures should be Source coil 1 brown_black + 420 Ohms Source coil 2 Red_Black = 13.6 Ohms Pulse coil Wht/Rd_Black = 12.4 Ohms All Plus / Minus 10% so it looks like your source coil 2 is out of spec, thats the thin one piggy backed onto the other, check this one again to make sure you didnt have a bad connection.

??? WTF

Great thread drewpy...

This is the measurements for the 'Dog Bones' on my bike, Mine is a K4 model though (the later one than yours) so I dont know if yours will be the same, but for what use it is... Bandit GSF600 Suspension Links Original = 74mm centres 1" Lower = 80mm centres

I suppose it could be the steering head bearings, the wheel bearings, play in the swing arm or even that you are not used to the bike.

no its something else, my bandit is lowered for my daughter to ride it, I dropped the front about 6mm, it has no problems with handling. Are you familiar with the bike or is it new to you? Have you checked the tyre pressures?

Why did you say water isnt an issue now, like were supposed to know something? It does sound like water in a carb float bowl possibility. If they are ok though dont forget to u tube the ultimate remedy...

If its the V star you are referring to there must be aftermarket pipes available, such as Vance and Hines, you may be best looking at these before doing anything drastic, ask our Goff, she had some aftermarket pipes on her 650....