Airhead

It always helps if you put in your profile the year of the bike as well as the model, cant look for a lens without specific year of bike, I did find one here but dont know if its for you. Light bulbs can be bought anywhere, any bike shop, some car spares shops, maybe Halfords...just look.

Just trim and re shape the offending bit off then...

before welding, remove the CDI if it has one...

Fact of the matter is..as Jim says, the front mudguard should never hit the exhaust...no matter how much the suspension is compressed. This would indicate something is damaged (bent)

Sh*t not again, are you ok? any witnesses in your favour, that blind spot stuff is just nonsense how can that be a defence? your confidence has obviously taken a knock, whats the damage to you and the bike?

Dan, youre getting confusing now, are you blowing fuse @11 amps with hazaard warning (4 indicators) + rear light on? I thought you were blowing fuse with direction indicator on

Awww couldnt u just kiss them

whats 11 amp? just the indicators without the rear light? if the rear light is connected the lions share of current is going there so 10w bulbs wont make it half

Bikes looking good, a stubby would make it better I think too...

ok mate, have pinned it for a while, hope you soon get it back.

like cynic says, two indicators at 21watts will take around 3.5 Amps so back light and indicator relay have 6.5 Amps for them, to blow straight away does suggest something is shorted, time to get the multimeter out, by the way have you tried the indicators left and right?

Topic pinned for a while.

No its the other way round, bending the tang down will shut off fuel later and so raise the level in the bowl. set the float level to the specified level, ensure the little spring loaded pin is not compressed as this measurement is taken. If you have the level correctly set and the valve is shutting off properly then the only other way the fuel can seep into the carb is through the sealing gasket for the needle valve (item 6 on the diagram), did you fit this gasket...is it intact?? ...Paul

You posted this once, dont be so impatient and double post!

You need to look at the wiring diagram and check the CDI is connected The ignition coil is connected The kill switch is connected and is has no continuity to chassis in the off position you wont need the key switch connected. All of the above doent mean the bike will spark though, could be something is faulty.

And YOU call me lucky!. Looks in great shape you lucky barsteward

Nick, there is a wanted forum, please dont post wants elsewhere, we turn a blind eye to manuals,,,sorry ...Paul

Following your PM I sent a diagram. ...Paul

M&P do a big range of bar risers, give them a call on 0844 815 6571 Have a look Here ...Paul

Hi langers and welcome to the forum. After such an extended storage time you will have lots to check and remedy Have a look at the battery, it is very likely to be sulphated and no use any longer. replace it and check for corrosion of the terminals and battery compartment. Remove the carb if it has one strip and clean it thoroughly using carb cleaner (keep this away from rubber components) and compressed air. Drain the fuel tank and check operation of the fuel tap (petcock) Place bike on centre stand and inspect tyres for hardness, cracks and flat spots, pump them up to specifications. Rotate rear wheel and check chain for kinks/tight links lube if ok. Walk with the bike and test the brakes are working When you have a good battery, check the operation of lights and horn check oil level before running the engine, when engine has run to hot replace oil and any filter if fitted ...Paul

Oh no youre not matey...

may be a split carb diaphragm? ...Paul

Nice one Jason, have some fun mate, you can even take it up gold street in Northampton...see if that copper is still on duty... Look forward to the pics.

The answer is no, all that about removing the throttle slide, needle and throttle sprin has no relevance to adjusting the float height...you just have to do all that to be able to remove the carb from the bike. The float needle valve has a spring loaded pin in the end of it. The correct float height is 21mm so 20mm as you quoted will give a high level anyhow...though not enough to overflow.

Hi Tone (Tony?) the spigot you show is the overflow, put a pipe on it and run the open end down between the back of the engine and the swing arm pivot. Two things 1, sounds like your float needle valve is passing fuel as your carb is overflowing, the float height adjustment should be done with the little spring loaded pin uncompressed, if you did it this way then remove and inspect for a worn ring around the pointed tip of the valve. 2. do not run the bike without a filter as it will no doubt run very lean unless you jet to compensate, this will overheat the engine and may hole pistons or seize whilst being ridden, a start and the odd rev up not ridden will be ok until you fit the filter. ...Paul