Airhead

Yeah, like nervously stable

is there no 'Big' fuse that protects the lot? have you checked your handbook?

is the petcock a vacuum type and if so is the vac line connected propery to the manifold, as has been said...sounds like an air leak....

Still shouldnt overflow though, a petcock left on 'Prime' is the same as a pre vac operated petcock in 'ON' position.

Greetings cloudy

lol. I imagine they are ...yes (the biggest of the two) the trouble is...its years since I had a 2 stroke twin and cant remember what the procedure is You wouldnt want one cylinder doing all the work, it should be shared equally between the two. i could guess that you remove one plug at a time and set each side seperately but dunno for sure...maybe YPVS Tone or Merv or anyone else who knows can enlighten us?

Dont forget this bike is a 6V system so most led set ups will be designed for 12V

Adjust the cables so that both indents appear in the windows at the same time. Use the knurled screws to adjust the idle speed, havent you got a manual?

Could it be fuel starvation due to a blocked tank vent causing a vacuum in the tank? open the filler cap to eliminate this as a possibility. ...Paul

They say that diesel oil is a good freeing agent, whip the plug out and pour some into the cylinder and leave it soaking for a few days, that should help to free the piston. You mention the clutch dragging, thats understandable with a bike thats been stood and with a cold engine, nothing to worry about i think there. Good luck with the resto

You have 'Windows' in your carbs with that model, with the engine stopped, open the throttle slowly and see if bothe the carbs open fully at the same time. There is an indent on each throttle slide, you will see it appear in the window.

Aye, Its a great car that renault Clio expressone! innit nicole?

Pulser coils can also be a problem , they can open circuit with high temp sometimes, I dont know the specifics for your bike though, as in what they should measure at and what wire colours, but in this case and the case of the ig coil, why not see if its an ignition issue by watching for a spark at the plug when its playing up, better still make it jump a 6mm gap by fixing something into the HT cap and held steady at 6mm away from engine cylinder / head (keep fingers away though, use other means to hold it fixed)

Sod off ...Alan

Try googling the first part of the engine number

ok mate, I've asked Alex to have a look at this topic.

Dave...I know if i stayed long enough i would come in handy someday I have tried it and found the same but like OT i either access via 'History' or a bookmark (Windows XP) will let Alex know...thanks for pointing it out

1.75? dont you mean 2.75? go for it, it will fit with no clearance problems, dont see how there will be any graeat disadvantage with such a small change.

Heres another couple

Might go, how about you?

The free movement is perfectly normal and is comprised of two things 1: The slack in the chain, do not try to eliminate this but keep it within specification, you do need slack to allow your suspension to work properly. 2: The remainder of the free play is the 'backlash' in the transmission between the crank, through the clutch ang the two gear shafts

Dont think so on a bike with round section swing arm

you gotta be English to understand that one, names Paul Like I said they were sprayed with rattle cans, I went to the local car accessory shop on my bike they mix their own colours and give you an aerosol. I ploughed through the many shades of blue in several books until I found one a very close match and they mixed it. so with flexible primer first followed by several coats of gloss and finished with clear coat laquer (gas proof if possible) carefully rubbing down with wet/dry between coats. ok its a long job i know, the alternative is get them done by a professional sprayer.

Try asking at motocarb, they are a mikuni specialist, they are in Liverpool and have a web site. There are others though but i use motocarb and have had good service

Happy birthday Steve.