Airhead

No, with a vacuum tap there will always be fuel in the float bowls unless the tank runs dry. But with the engine not running the fuel supply should stop, you can test its function by 1 pull off the fuel pipe from the carb and place in a suitable container 2 Pull off the vacuum pipe from the manifold 3 suck on the vacuum pipe 4 you will see fuel delivery only when suction applied

Can you turn the fuel to 'Off' or is it vacuum operated? If you can turn it off then start the bike turn fuel off and just when it starts to die turn it on. Repeat this process just to get her warmed up if it works. also a spray of WD40 around the HT caps and leads may help.

Hiya Dan Mine will do 60 if you thrash it But that would be 55 on a GPS Anyhow, what u doin 120 for?

Could be a dirty fuel filter wherever it is on that bike, thus the engine runs but the carbs have only a trickle flow of fuel feed. The carbs run dry, the engine stops, the trickle flow re-fills the carbs, and so on and so on

Hmmm, If only everything in life were as reliable as a volvo. Hey...That would make a great ad...Tarrant on TV sylee

Yes your fuel tap must be leaking, this allows fuel to fill the carbrettor. Also your carburettor float valve must be leaking, this allows fuel into your cylinder head intake valve. If the valve is open when the engine is not running then this fuel will pass by the intake valve and will seep down the sides of the piston into the sump area where it will dilute the oil. In severe cases i have heard that so much fuel can enter the engine in this way that a hydraulic lock can occur when the starter button is pressed but i dont know if this is factual or not. i suggest you take off the fuel pipe from the carb to check if the (i assume vacuum operated) tap is leaking. ...Paul

" Mr Buck said: "The photographs must presumably show two vehicles, with mine parked halfway on the pavement and road." Gotcha ...Dohh!

Its about perceived street cred i reckon, young people like to have the latest new modern bikes and old(er) people like nothing more that old ones...well some of them anyway. Its very true though that some of the older 125's were flying machines (NSR's, Mito's, Aprillia's and the like) ...having said that, they too had to be de-restricted. Never in a month of sundays will you get a modern four stroke anywhere near the performance of these bikes. The hardest bit is finding one worth buying after its been thrashed by a dozen previous yoof's

Here you go paulie paul ...Paul

Haha...Time for a 'Swift' exit Foamy

I would start with removing and de-coking the silencer baffle. Also try turning the fuel tap to off if it has an off position, see if it improves after a short while when the fuel level drops in the carb.

Roger I fixed your picture, you need to post directly to your post just paste it directly there...dont bother with the 'Insert Image' window . I see you worked it out now

Yep, that looks great...feck the garden eh!

watched it for 10 minutes before i figured out to press the PLAY button again

Nice job Roger,

I thought he was gonna say he missed his dog

Can you disconnect the signal from the solenoid and measure the voltage when the starter button is pressed?

Greetings Vykintas If youre concerned about compression then why not do a compression test on the bike, you may be right. 50 to 1 sounds a bit sparse on the oil to me though but if you know best. I too am a fan of pumped lubrication

Give these a bell Here

Hi your bars are very likely to be 22mm standard, but why dont you just measure them? just close an adjustable spanner to the bars, remove it and measure

Between 0 and 3 psi ...Paul

Fourteenhundredenglishpounds

Great idea mate, the little Honda will no doubt be upto the job. Do an oil change, and new battery chain & sprockets if needed. Shouldnt be too dear on this...Ooh and take a chain lube on the trip.