Airhead

Wahey...nice one mate. Tis a lot better, i'm amazed how you put up with it for so long, i couldnt stand it for more than a day or two. i bet is sounds a lot better when it comes onto the pipe now eh

Maybe so...but the DT is a better bike The neutral light and the sidestand switch appear to be the problem. Shorting the stand switch will no doubt get you going even if you dont fix the neutral light but it's hardly convenient for your son, get them both fixed properly though asap then the youg un doesnt come unstuck by riding with the stand down!

The sidestand switch should depress the plunger when the stand is up (usually). Yes you are wrong in thinking to disconnect it will get you going. When things go wrong here the usual short term get you going fix is to unplug the switch and make a shorting piece of wire with a couple of crimps on to put back in place of the stand switch....However if there is a stand switch problem this should only occur when the bike is put into gear, therefore....have you also got a neutral light problem? Still check the coil back to batt neg, this will verify a good ground path.

Disconnecting the sidestand switch is never going to give a spark, when the stand is down the switch is open and if put in gear with engine running will cut the spark then, usually only a problem when in gear these things. How did you check the coil resistance? what points did you take the measurement from? if the answer is from the LT wire to the coil laminations just repeat this from the LT wire to the batter NEG terminal, this should be the same or you have a bad ground on the coil. Also has the flywheel rotor come loose and sheared the woodruf key?

The reed switch may well be 60mph...but on mine its 80km/h, so if i then use a converter as i have done it would mean reed switch at 80mph for as long as I am using that arrangement. Yeah 4/4 hours is time to do all that ...and...set the PV if it needs setting so thats you and blackhat both illegals now , I will call a meeting to see if we can bar you both

No the theory is to disconnect it and then try while it is disconnected, your bike has flywheel magneto ignition, when the key is off the signal is shorted to ground. also if switch faulty the signal can be shorted to ground, so it is an easy one to eliminate especially as you have checked many other things.

Disconnect the keyswitch and try again

Aye good luck with it Foamy, i'm sure it will sell If it doesnt though, keep it and sell the Jawa (you know it makes sense) after all the XJ can live under a cover while you sort it out. Just think...when you are an oldFoamy you can go to classic rallies on the DT

You sure youre selling the right one here? isnt there a Jawa cluttering up the shed somewhere

Have you checked the flow of fuel to the carb yet?

How could you foamy I would acvise you to delete this bit though "bike has been down once when turning in a wet/slippy carpark and again on an icy road, bike was not damaged apart from a few scratches on the right-hand handguard" People would expect a scratch on the handguard as you rode it through the trees in the woods. The been down bit just doesnt need saying if thats all thats wrong.

and check the seals on the tappet inspection covers are intact.

Nice one Mark, good choice of bike too. People often say they have trouble with this bike with regard the gear change, do you notice anything?

Pull your exhaust off Check the restrictor tube is not present Remove cover over PV pulley Switch ignition on then off, check the slot aligns over the hole behind it (use a 4mm drill shaft to check) While the pulley is aligned as above, look in the exhaust port and check the PV and exhaust port are aligned and smooth...like in my photos earlier. If it isnt your PV is in the wrong position like mine was...see earlier to rectify. I have had my exhaust off twice now and its easy, all done in 1/2 - 3/4 hour

This says it could be a poor flow of fuel to the carb, or even rust in the carb fuel spigot. Your assumption is correct and this also ties in with poor fuel delivery.

We do they are both 4BL models, i know (Think) mine is French because of this sticker on the rear mudguard.(see pic) I dont see the connection you are making with referance to the speed limiter and the maximum revs. With this limiter being part of the speedo then you should be able to rev much higher if you are under 85 km/h...so you have a restriction to sort out. as you quite rightly say I cannot yet confirm if mine will rev over that figure. Are your roads in kms or miles? Havent got a clue as to the headlight, the only thing I do know is it is crap. I can tape up a bit of it as has been said but to be honest my MOT is not until January so I will tape it up and by January will have a new one fitted anyhow.

And by coincidence today i fitted a Motrax brand mechanical kilometer converter to mine This is what you get This is fitted, a bit tricky to fit I needed to move the wiring around to accomodate it. Andy did you ever test its accuracy against anything? While I was in this area I removed the reed switch as seems to be 'The thing to do' anyone know what this thing is actually doing? In the above photo you can see the reed switch taped up out of the way. I have learned that this 'speed limiter' is fitted to german bikes to limit to 80km/h, and also fitted to French bikes (mine) but not functional. Thinking about it though...even if it was functional then with the converter fitted it would only be functional at 80 MPH not 80 km/h, well fast enough for me so may as well have left it in Went for a ride around and didnt notice anything, but still running in so keeping to around 6000 rpm. Seems willing enough though. DEP pipe bigger jet and Boyesen reeds are wainting to be picked up. Also bought another reed cage, inlet manifold and cylinder head from ebay. (watch this space)

Hi try here http://ti1ca.com/ukzfcrg8f-rmt-dtr-tdr-rmt96-TDR.pdf.html

Heres on Martin, will ship to Germany...looks ok http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150419948411&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123

If your plug is that bad why not buy a new one?

Hi Martin, save a search on ebay dt250* manual save it for items wordwide and you will be emailed when one comes along ...Paul

at a guess 1974 = A 75 = B 76 = C 77 = D

Well i have holidays i need to use up so decided to go for a potter round on the new toy, Lots of pics of my bike coz i love it an a bit of scenery too Standege road between Diggle and Marsden near the summit, still a surprising amount of the white stuff left here. Road to Marsden Holmfirth, last of the summer wine country Self indugence Two pics near Stocksbridge And on to Castleton, one of the tourist attractions of the peak district. first pics 'Where did the road go' ? Mam Tor road From Wikipedia Mam Tor is a 517 m (1,696 ft) hill near Castleton in the High Peak of Derbyshire, England. Its name literally translates[vague] as Heights of the Mother[citation needed] and it is also known as the Shivering Mountain on account of the instability of its lower shale layers.[1] Indeed, in 1979 the continual battle to maintain the A625 road (Sheffield to Chapel en le Frith) on the crumbling southern side of the hill was lost when the road officially closed as a through-route. At the base of the Tor and nearby are four show caves: Blue John Cavern, Speedwell Cavern, Peak Cavern and Treak Cliff Cavern where lead, Blue John, fluor spar and other minerals were once mined. Evidence for the continued movement of the slide mass is demonstrated graphically by the complete destruction of a road that once crossed the width of the failure. The road was originally built at the beginning of the 1800s and was subsequently relaid until local authorities closed the road in 1979. Layers of tarmac and gravel are up to 2 metres thick in places, demonstrating the numerous efforts to keep the road open. Last pic, still in castleton...Winatts pass, It's a steep bugger. 125 km's...a nice afternoon out, hands freezing, big smile and no flies on the teeth How was you day?

I think it is a YZ125D 1977

Oops so it is .