Airhead

eeez sooo popula

Check tyre pressures, about 20psi front, 22 psi back is good.

I just bought one of these, wish I had done it years ago...£40 Can work on front or back with this If youre skint there is another way, but only for back

escie its always a guess but have lo look at what you said and what you said here could just mean clutch drag, either form too much oil or the wrong grade of oil or both. There again it could easily be something else but its an easy check...just look in the round window a la sesame street

It is mate, there is a 12mm bolt behind the rear brake pedal, it is about 75mm long. Warm the engine first then undo the bolt, press the brake and you can remove the bolt. If you are canny you will not remove it fully just enough to get oil flowing out and then push it back when some has come out. All this is assuming there is too much in of course. Tip hold the bike upright or oil will run back under your engine etc. Tip 2 to re-check level you need to restart the engine briefly and then stop it, I dont know why this is but believe me the window will lie if you dont.

2 stroke oil pups work in two ways 1: Throttle position (engine load), with no load or a closed throttle the pumps stroke is minimal, with high load or open throttle the pump stroke is maximum. Between these two is proportional. 2: Engine speed, with low speed ie idle the pumping frequency is low. With high speed the pumping frequency is high. In your case you have a closed throttle but high speed engine, this means small pump stroke but frequent pumping frequency, all is well. However I dont know how familiar with your bike you are, did you bleed the pump? do you know the pump works? You can force the issue if worried by removing the pump cover and turning the pulley to max by hand for a minute while the engine is running, as I said this will allow the pump to stroke fully.

escie, check your transmission oil level. There is a window below the kickstarter, stand the bike upright not on the stand. you should see the line of the level in the window. i suspect all you will see is oil (darkness) as in over full. ...Paul

Ehh? that's exactly what is supposed to happen, nothing wrong with the fuel cock then. Must be a problem elsewhere like rollers or whatever. Not familiar with twist n go's though

Magneto side, remove cover start engine and spray WD40 through slots in flywheel aiming the jet toward the seal, listen for a change in tone or engine speed. Clutch side, place the transmission case breather pipe in a jar with some white spirit in, Start the engine and look for bubbles or for the fluid being drawn up the pipe.

Bad news Sam, your stepdad is probably right, it sounds like a heat sieze and you may have damaged your new barrel, pison and rings, best get the gead off and ghave a look. is the motor able to turn still? Did you up jet the carb, if so from what to what? WildFoamy would be a good guy for advice here I think, ...Paul

Not much oil will be fed with a closed throttle, only when the pulley turns as the throttle opens does it allow the pump to stroke further. As for the engine racing, its an air leak Either from throttle not fully closed, or from perished or split intake manifold Leaks around joints each side of intake manifold. Gaskets missing or broken at cylinder base or reed block to cylinder Crank case seals worn. There is a rough and ready way to test for crank seals

Like i say I'm guessing here but There should be two pipes, on large bore one which is the fuel pipe and one smaller pipe which would be the vac pipe. Pull each off the carb and suck on the small one, there should be NO fuel in this one, when you suck and cause a vacuum then fuel should come out of the other one. If there is fuel coming from the small one then there is a problem with the diaphragm in the fuel cock. Hopefully you have been sucking the wrong one and thats why fuel came out?

Hmmm i assume the finger space is just the slide cutaway, there should be hardly any space at all at the back of the slide. Are you sure that the throttle stop screw has not been screwed in too far?

What happens if you pull the choke on? is there a sudden improvement? This will indicate if it's a fuelling issue.

Yes it could be the vacuum tap. I'm not familiar with the model....But check the vac pipe is ok and not trapped / kinked. If it looks well is there any way to pull it off from the manifold, also pull off the fuel pipe from the carb spigot suck on the vac pipe and see if fuel flow is ok...I appreciate this may be difficult but it is a tried and tested check of vac fuel taps. ...Paul

Word has it that pod filters and two strokes are a bad mix, keep the original airbox. If you dont agree and decide to do it anyway try a 120 in fact buy a couple of jets they are not expensive maybe a 120 and a 110. Plug chops will be the order of the day too.

Well they may be but you need to be certain about the other things before you condemn them. There are things inside the forks that can and should be replaced from time to time, Have a look in the parts manual (see parts manuals for yamaha bikes) sticky in workshop. You will see in the DT175E manual Item 16 2A6-23157-00-00 . RING, PISTON FRTFRK I would replace these every now and again as well as the obvious seals at the top. Not sure about the groove clearance though, if it does seem bad then you may have to pack it yes, the only problem is you dont want any packing in the bottom of the groove, at the front would be best.

Yeah like wizzer said, you should hear a clunk as the carb slide bottoms out when the throttle is closed, if you dont the cable is pulling or badly adjusted.

Try Yambits duffers, not seen you for aaages, thought you'd sold up

Play in the front end could mean a fail. you need to be certain its the forks though because play in the brake plate anchor groove or play in the bearings need to be eliminated before you condemn the forks. lift the bike off the ground and weight the back so the front is airborne, I used to use a bottle crate with a lump of wood on it to do this but I have recently bought one of those proper lifting gadgets which is much better. Grasp the tyre at the top and bottom and try rocking the wheel by pushing the top and pulling the bottom and so on. this will test the wheel bearings. Turn the bars one way and the other check they are free and smooth. Get help and someone to hold the bars steady and pull the brake, now push and pull the wheel get the helper to place a finger against the top heastock bearing cover and the headstock they will feel any free play that is there. Now same again with the brake and helper, undo the bottom gaitor clips and slide the gaitor up, helper place a finger against the top dust cover and the stancheon, any play there. Do this first lets find out for sure where the problem lies.

blake, why hijack this thread? Start your own in workshop or dualsport sections, just copy and paste what you put here in this one. I will delete this when you do that. ...Paul

Without a parts list I couldnt be certain but I would imagine they are. Why not go onto Bikebandit and compare their stock numbers for both these bike's speedo's? .........But I have to ask why did you not order a 175 speedo? I imagine this is because they are unavailable so does that mean they are different? fingers crossed. Anyway Dave what happened, something to do with the lens flying down the freeway?