Airhead

30 - 39 seconds looked a bit odd, but after that was ok

Well done Mr & Mrs BWJ

haha thanks everybody, and Drewpy...you crack me up keep posting that picture of you

That is exactly how you paint the plastics yes, give consideration to Decals if you are using them and laquer...fuel proof or not. Are you using rattle cans or proper spraying equipment?

Could be a blocked main jet. as said by 'Cynic'

Welcome Andy

CMM recently did a feature on restoring a chappy

CBT isnt a big deal though and you can ride a 125 on L plates, I cant recommend the DT125 enough, the problem is that they have generally been either neglected or thrashed to death by an assortment of 'yoofs', or a combination of both. I know you are happy with your 50 but keep an eye out all the time because if you could net one cheaply or from a mature owner i just know you would be well chuffed with it. I have a Suzuki Bandit 600, Yamaha DT175MX and a recently acquired DT125R., been riding for 35 Years

Ding....Dong Hic... Cheers Jim

Not sure about the exhaust on your bike but have a look at my thread 'De-restricting my DT125R' you will see the restriction I removed from my exhaust quite early on in that thread. It will give you an idea what to look for. Sometimes however there are other things in there like Catalist converters etc, I wouldnt recommend a novice to dig that deep. Get a 125 and be done with it is my advice, 50's are for 16 year olds

Bert this thread is 3 years old, someone may know though but dont expect an answer from Jake eh!

Happy birthday 2U, Happy birthday 2U, Happy birthday, Happy birthday, Happy birthday 2U, And me!! Happy birthday Dan the man...same as mine

Andy, not too clear on the pics, but are your pv cables crossed? looked to me like yours was working correctly, least some of the time.

Come on Andy Check yours and let us know

Welcome Thanasis It makes a refreshing change to see a first post actually saying hello rather than, how do i fix?, where do i find? etc etc ...Paul

Hi Bert. The oil light on these 2 stroke bikes works simply from a level switch in the oil tank and they light up when the level is low. However if the indicator bulb had blown you wouldnt then know that the oil level is low, so to get around this the manufacturer makes the wiring so that the light is also on when the bike is in neutral so this is only a bulb check facility, you must ALWAYS expect to see the lamp when in neutral and can then rest assured that it will work when the level is low. As for the rest of your dilemma is sounds as if your bike may need a service, possibly a de-coke but thats just speculating on my part.

Welcome Edmonton, thats a great name sir Just had a look in the workshop forum 'parts Manuals' unfortunately YB100 is missing Haynes are usually well worth having so I advise you get one. Yamaha parts from Granbys or Fowlers (Bristol) ...Paul

Yes another piece further down, more of that baffle stuff there, no doubt you will see weld for that too, best place is to cut where the weld is in order to remove it.

Try this, next time it cuts out open the filler cap and try to start the engine, it might be a trapped carb vent and pulling a vacuum in the engine. (Edit I mean a trapped / blocked tank vent and pulling vac in the tank)Another possibility is the ignition pulser breaking down under high temperature, when the bike cools a little all is well again, this would require investigating or replacing, cant give you any resistance fugures though you will have to check in a Haynes manual. ...Paul

Somehow i dont think it is as big as you think it is Found this in Yam2strke forum

The only thing likely to do that would be the kickstarter return spring. I was kinda hoping you would see the fault when you removed the casing. Look at the kickstart return spring, if it is still located correctly it may be advisable to photograph it while it is in position for future reference. silvery oil is not good.

I love the white ones, but they are best not photographed on snowy days

Hi Chris, how about? Disconnect the battery pos lead Connect battery pos lead to a multimeter, red lead Plug multimeter red lead into 20A socket on meter Set meter scale to 20 A DC connect meter black lead to battery pos terminal Start bike using kickstart only, then you can witness if the battery is being charged by the current that is displayed on the meter. ...Paul

The piston isnt seized so that is very good news. next job then is to drain the oil and remove the clutch cover casing to examine the kick start mechanism, hopefully you will identify the fault when you see in there.

Dunno but you will presumably be going to a car spares shop to buy the replacements eh? Back when i were a lad they used to sell it by the yard and it had real copper strands. You may see something in your manual about the cap resistance so have a look there.