Airhead

so did you get cash in hand for the accident that wasnt your fault, and how come it wasnt your fault anyway? you drove into the back of someone. i mean think about it, if a car drives into the back of you on your bike you mean it's not their fault? I think it is myself, you might think they were not concentrating, too fast, too near...or am i missing something here?

Hi and welcome As far as I know thr brakelight works from the battery and so...you need a good battery! Also the horn works from said battery so this can be used to determine the battery is good. Unplug the two connectors to the brake switch and check the switch operates using a multi meter. Check the bulb filament using a multimeter. check that battery voltage appears in the bulb housing when brake pedal is pressed. Oh and dont forget there is a long thread and adjusting nut on the brake switch...it might just need adjusting after all. Try pulling the actuater down by hand to test. ...Paul

They were all too busy phonin an textin Sad times we live in indeed. Glad you and your bike are ok (ish)

You just bought it eh...Woz it cheap An interesting post title 'lost of compression' well i'm thinkink if the compression is lost then that could well be the problem, in fact almost certainly. However I suspect this is just a typo and it has lots of compression If this is the case and you have only just bought it is there fuel in it and are you leaving the choke in the on position because it will run rough if this is the case. ...Paul

I'm surprised at the restoration of these bikes as a 'business proposition' since the restoration of bikes is normally done by owners who put their own 'free' time into the project. Even then the final value of the bike is unlikely to match what has been spent on parts ans services etc but people do it just because they love their old bikes and take a great deal of pride in what they achieved.

Eh? you have a servo with 5 wires from it...yes? Well then thats a 5 wire servo in my book!

Hello James. Did you remove the radiator cap and remove the drain bolt from the water pump and lean the bike to the right until all coolant was drained...before slackening the cylinder head nuts? It sounds like you did'nt and now have coolant in your crankcase

Sounds like the torsion spring could be broken of come adrift, it is held by a circlip. see %201A3RM-300EA/SHIFT%20SHAFT/"]Here

Today I fitted my 3MB head. Took the plug out of the old head and it's a nice colour (crap picture) On looking at the two heads I estimated that the 3MB head would offer higher compression. With the 3BN and a warm engine got 95psi and with the 3MB my suspicions were confirmed with 105psi and thats cold so would increase with a warm engine. All in all its a complicated job compared to the DT175 air cooled, torque settings of head bolts can only be done on some of the nuts due to access problems, Ring spanner and guesswork for the others. Before you ask yes it ran sweet going home a trip of 7 miles but taking it easy due to having drained the coolant and uncertainty over whether its working properly. The temperature sensor in the new head didnt work but the radiator was warm when I got home so thats good. Also the head gasket fitted was a pattern one so that may or may not be a source of trouble in the future. New head, new plug

Hi and welcome, try cleaning the airfilter, if its a corrugated paper type back blow it with compressed air. ...Paul

I laid my bandit up for the winter once and next spring had the same problem, no amount of cleaning lubing would free it so I traded the bike in for another.

'Mitaka' piston low quality?? No sir I dont think so Mitaka = good

No you will get a full refund including postage (Item not as described) Have you asked the seller for a full refund? if he does not co-operate the open a dispute.

reserve is vacuum operated

no not a big job, just get a new one, dig out the old one, you may even be able to do it without draining the oil if you get a mate to lean the bike to the right. I recomment placing some tape over the splines of the gear change shaft as you fit the new one, then just tap it home. ask member 2wheels he did his so has first hand experience.

it's be fine Pat 60 isnt thrashing it by any means...but you have a 600 cbr?...why not that?

....go figure

Are they American

The 4FU cylinder is nickasil plated and cannot simply be re-bored, this may explain the high cost of repair. also the piston used has a concave crown for some reason.

You need a new gearchange shaft seal fitted.

on relection I would advise you paint where you can with a brus on, that would be much easier especially for someone with no experience.

No you cannot use hammerite on exhausts. However I think you can indeed buy exhaust manifold paint as a brush on instead of aerosol, at least you could do a few years ago because I have some in the garage somewhere.

If you are talking of the exhaust pipe not the covers, you cannot use hammerite here because they get very hot. I would recommend using Plasti-kote barbecue paint available from Wilkinsons stores and B&Q. They are aerosol so you may have to remove the exhaust from the bike, or if you paint them on-board do lots of masking and you wont be able to do them completely.

Thats the engine Oh you mean the other end Thats the silencer muffler At a guess.