Airhead

You definitely have a problem with fuel level if it is comin out of the carb whatever you say about the valve condition...try tapping the carb with a hammer shaft in case the float has somehow stuck. Also it is behaving like a blocked pilot jet scenario? you say it starts fine..ON CHOKE? idles for 1 min....ON CHOKE? it is hardly going to be warmed up after just 1 minute is it?

Just replace the fuse, if it blows again we have a problem Houston If it doesnt, maybe your problems are solved.

I asked you about the balancer shaft, whats the answer? if you have had the balancer shaft / crankshaft gear off because you have had the feckin engine in bits........

Which coil is this?

COAT GET IT

At a guess, EITHER your stand was down OR you got water in the stand switch.

Hi and welcome Mike There is a forum specially for these bikes where there is a lot of expertise http://www.aircooledrdclub.co.uk/forum/default.asp You will have a lot of work to do I imagine, carbs will need stripping and cleaning, preferably ultrasonic cleaning. Tyres will be shot and need replacing. Fuel tank will need cleaning Battery will need replacing Crank seals will possibly need replacing Clutch will be stuck and need stripping and re-building Transmission oil change These are just things that spring to mind A picture would be nice (see FAQ's) ...Paul T

Nice one Woody, looking forward to the wedding suit pics now

Whats an "unbalanced clutch" ? Describe your problem. Have you had the balancer shaft gear off? Did you align the punch marks on re-assembly? It's all in the Haynes book

Sounds a reasonable diagnosis, have you got a multimeter to check it or know someone that has? Should have around 12.5 volts with engine stopped and around 14.5 volts with engine at 5000 RPM at a guess

Here are the carb warmer pipes Jordan, the other is obviously the fuel line.

Well you should know where you disconnected them from. I'll give you a tip for the future Almost everybody these days had a digital camera or a camera phone, use it next time and you wont find yourself in this predicament again.

Try 0 - 60 downhill

They go to the same place that they were disconnected from

Ive seen it before. I cant understand how he keeps falling off though. he should give it up as a bad job IMO.

Two seperate problems here I think. sort the float height out Check the condition of the that valve seat, see if theres a ring worn around the pointed end, replace as necessary. The high revving can be an indication of an air leak. I take it you have not had this bike running before? If not it's possible that the crank seal (magneto side) needs replacing. As a test remove the cover and start the engine, then use a can of WD40 with the straw attached and spray a jet of the stuff towards the crank seal (through the slots in the flywheel) Notice if it has any effect on the way the engine runs. If it does...you get to change the seal.

Welcome Lee, very nice bikes...

Have a good one mate

You really do need to fit those circlips asap. I'm wondering if you are losing your spark when cranking with the starter. 1: The spark plug specification is BR9ES/1 piece Manufacturer N.G.K. Spark plug gap 0.6 ~ 0.7 mm Set yours to 0.6mm 2: If still not working try this attach a car battery in parallel to your bike battery + to + ........and - to - see if this makes any difference, if it does you may only need to replace the battery, not the starter. replacing the starter will be expensive and if it is cranking the engine , replacement seems unnecessary to me.

Dont put too much pressure on yourself, if you pass...great, if you dont, it's not the end of the world. Good luck!

so you've had the engine apart, seen score marks on the cylinder wall, seen diagrams that show clips that will prevent this scoring but chose to ignore that and re-built the engine, is this correct? Cylinder head nuts torque 17Nm M7 nuts...thats a weird size but I suppose m6 would be a bit small. Items to tighen Number Thread pitch Tightening Observations torque Nm m•kg Spark plug 1 M14 x 1.25 23 2.3 Cylinder head Nuts 4 M7 x 1.0 17 1.7 Cylinder Bolts 4 M8 x 1.25 18 1.8 Coolant draining plug 1 M6 x 1.0 5 0.5 Water pump cover Screw 3 M6 x 1.0 5 0.5 Thermostat bolt 2 M4 x 0.7 2 0.2 Water pump Bolt 2 M5 x 0.8 7 0.7 Carburetor joint Screw 4 M6 x 1.0 10 1.0 Crankcase (left right) Screw 13 M6 x 1.0 10 1.0 Bolt 4 M7 x 1.0 12 1.2 Crankcase cover 1 Bolt 5 M5 x 0.8 5 0.5 Crankcase cover 2 Bolt 4 M6 x 1.0 10 1.0 Crankcase cover 3 Crankcase cover 1 2 M5 x 98 4.5 0.45 Oil drain plug 1 M8 x 1.25 17 1.7 Intermediate shaft Nut 1 M12 x 1.0 60 6.0 Clutch Nut 1 M12 x 1.25 75 7.5 Screw 4 M5 x 0.8 4 0.4 Push rod nut 1 M14 x 1.25 27 2.7 Shift pedal Screw 1 M8 x 1.25 30 3.0 Starter motor Screw 2 M6 x 1.0 10 1.0 Flywheel 1 M10 x 1.25 52 5.2

Hi and welcome Dan, I dont know the answer but im sure the guys and gals on the disabled biker forum will. HTH...Paul

ok, youre welcome Will.

ok will, it looks like both your coils are duff then. You can get cheap replacements for both though from electrex world I think you need a P30 pulse coil and a C31 source coil, check with supplier though. http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/p30-pulse-coil-1889-0.html http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/c31-ignition-coil-3837-0.html

what range is your meter set to? is your meter any good? is the battery flat in the meter? try measuring an indicator bulb filament just to test the meter I'm beginning to have doubts about this now, you said it beeps like there is a circuit but you cannot say what reading it gives. I just dont see two being down at the same time! 200 ohms range for the pulse coil 2000 (2k) ohms range for the source coil