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Airhead

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Everything posted by Airhead

  1. Have pinned it for you, if it comes back be sure to let us know.
  2. Does you carb have a slide like in the picture you linked? If the answer is yes, then put it in so that the cutaway at the bottom of the slide...faces the air filter, You will see that the slide goes right down to the bottom as the spring forces it down.
  3. Good for you liam, its a graet feeling getting a new bike eh?
  4. Thats the carb needle, now the clip (you called a splitpin...ugghh!)need to be in the correct groove...I dont know which this is bu if you dont try the middle one. As for the revving I suspect you may have fitted the throttle slide in the wrong way, if you see the cut-away section at the bottom...well this should face the air filter ...not the engine. If you have put it in wrong the slide will be full open. You will see there is a groove down one side, this aligns with a peg inside the bore and keeps it all straight Have you got a manual? this will tell you the correct clip groove to use ...Paul
  5. webi much as I would like to help I have no idea what you're on about. if you dont know the proper names of things you should perhaps use pictures.
  6. You know what MZ, I think your reasoning is good there. In fact I think the unreadable teminal id is GROUND When the switch is in RUN position there is a live feed down the red/white down to the solenoid, passing through the cut ou interlock on the way (in neutral...clutch pulled) anyway this live feed passes through the solenoid coil and returns back to handlebar switch via white/blue. Now when the start button is pressed it is switched to ground return and thus operates the solenoid. Least thats how I see it. ...Paul
  7. ok I was in a rush before so didnt think about it properly. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection.
  8. unplug the orange wire from the coil. Measure the resistance of the coil secondary from inside the connector in the HT cap...to the battery negative terminal measure the coil primary orange wire to the battery negative terminal What do you get? are they within spec?
  9. Your bike is probaly older than the 'Lad' whose testing it. Its a crappy 30 year old 6v systam, so wat if a light dims when you push another button, next year take it somewhere else. As for this year, make sure the battery electrolyte is topped up bwith de-ionised water, fully charge it overnight, check and clean any grounds you can find. As for ther horn, take a jumper direct from battery positive unplug the wire thats is NOT black and touch the jumper on the horn terminal. If it works you need to strip down the horn push and clean the contacts If it doesnt you need a new horn, of a new battery, or charge the battery etc my money will be on cleaning the horn push contacts.
  10. I can make them out all except the one on the right left to right Br,L/B,L/W,??
  11. Good idea but could be more effective with the clutch lever pulled and tied to the handlebar as you do this.
  12. Does this help? http://server6.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Yamaha.SR250.jpg&album=25062&fullsize=1 Two of the contacts will be the 'Coil' of the solenoid and as such will have a resistance value quite low, the blue/white will go to one of those.
  13. All of those in post #40 and 'DT125 1989'..possibly I think thats 9 of us so far
  14. Thats a sickener CT Sounds a lot to me but then again it would, I would fix my own., how did it happen?
  15. Airhead

    New Born

    Welcome back to biking Liam Although I do like the YBR bike in my books Andy you did better
  16. yep get it sorted, full weight...it should have locked up well before that
  17. I heard the driver was trying to avoid some old duffer in an RCV
  18. Thats what I would do too.
  19. ok any work done on oil pumps needs to be followed by what i said in last post.
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