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Airhead

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Everything posted by Airhead

  1. Airhead replied to webi's topic in The Bar
    webi much as I would like to help I have no idea what you're on about. if you dont know the proper names of things you should perhaps use pictures.
  2. You know what MZ, I think your reasoning is good there. In fact I think the unreadable teminal id is GROUND When the switch is in RUN position there is a live feed down the red/white down to the solenoid, passing through the cut ou interlock on the way (in neutral...clutch pulled) anyway this live feed passes through the solenoid coil and returns back to handlebar switch via white/blue. Now when the start button is pressed it is switched to ground return and thus operates the solenoid. Least thats how I see it. ...Paul
  3. Dont you mean VANGO Kev?
  4. ok I was in a rush before so didnt think about it properly. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection.
  5. unplug the orange wire from the coil. Measure the resistance of the coil secondary from inside the connector in the HT cap...to the battery negative terminal measure the coil primary orange wire to the battery negative terminal What do you get? are they within spec?
  6. OTT

    Airhead replied to barkwindjammer's topic in The Bar
    Shocking
  7. Your bike is probaly older than the 'Lad' whose testing it. Its a crappy 30 year old 6v systam, so wat if a light dims when you push another button, next year take it somewhere else. As for this year, make sure the battery electrolyte is topped up bwith de-ionised water, fully charge it overnight, check and clean any grounds you can find. As for ther horn, take a jumper direct from battery positive unplug the wire thats is NOT black and touch the jumper on the horn terminal. If it works you need to strip down the horn push and clean the contacts If it doesnt you need a new horn, of a new battery, or charge the battery etc my money will be on cleaning the horn push contacts.
  8. I can make them out all except the one on the right left to right Br,L/B,L/W,??
  9. Good idea but could be more effective with the clutch lever pulled and tied to the handlebar as you do this.
  10. Does this help? http://server6.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Yamaha.SR250.jpg&album=25062&fullsize=1 Two of the contacts will be the 'Coil' of the solenoid and as such will have a resistance value quite low, the blue/white will go to one of those.
  11. Try a different spark plug Phil
  12. Looks nice Shokz
  13. All of those in post #40 and 'DT125 1989'..possibly I think thats 9 of us so far
  14. Thats a sickener CT Sounds a lot to me but then again it would, I would fix my own., how did it happen?
  15. Airhead replied to LiamALu's topic in The Bar
    Welcome back to biking Liam Although I do like the YBR bike in my books Andy you did better
  16. yep get it sorted, full weight...it should have locked up well before that
  17. Airhead replied to ChristianSRA's topic in The Bar
    I heard the driver was trying to avoid some old duffer in an RCV
  18. Thats what I would do too.
  19. ok any work done on oil pumps needs to be followed by what i said in last post.
  20. Hmmm, funny thing is though...sit down to read this. . . . . There MIGHT be nothing wrong with your pump, it MIGHT only need bleeding and priming. To bleed just undo the screw at the top until oil runs out. To prime, run motor on idle and hold pulley to full open position. if you use clear tube (yambits) you will see if its working ok. lets hope the bearings are ok after this
  21. Welcome to the forum Andy you have a great little stroker there, looks a good clean example. Plenty of smiles to be had there me thinks.
  22. Different voltages, seems a lot of fuss, bikes have been running led's for years on 12v setups, the main power usage would be with a headlamp and i'm not sure that an led will be good enough or even whether it will pass its annual MOT (roadworthiness) test without some form of approved headlamp. I do agree that led's have come on leaps and bounds in recent years and that they are now being fitted as running lights (not headlights) on some cars
  23. up.yours...why the hell dont you join the AA or something welcome Karl, dont think there are many 50's around, lets see if any turn up.
  24. interestin idea but 1: why can you not charge both batteries at the same time, have the lights hanging off one and the engine running off the other? 2: an led headlamp? surely not?