Airhead

Dont forget to put the base gasket on and seat it properly Then fit the studs and nip them up, just a nip...dont go mad. RAGS in the crancase mouth from the very start Yes the holes in the piston are at the back. Oil the bore as you said and also the small end bearing before you slide the pin in. You may find that the rings have a thin crinkly expander ring too...if they do it goes in the bottom groove with the gap around the little peg. Top and bottom rings are often different so you need to identify which is which before you try fitting them in the grooves. The top one sometimes has a mark etched into it near the gap, it is usually a keystone ring whereas the bottom one is parallel, It is important you are sure of this before attempting to fit them. Also look out that they go on the right way up so that they go around the pegs ok. A novice may find it difficult to lower the bore with one hand and manipulate the rings and piston with the other...do this and risk breaking the rings (hence the rags), so get some help lowering the bore over the piston.

Looks to me like the gasket set you bought is for a watercooled bike, the cylinder you are buying (which is incredibl cheap) is an aircooled jobbie! So it goes without saying...cancel the gaskets they are no use whatever the bore size is. Wild Foamy is yer man on DT big bores.

Are you replacing the piston?...did I miss something? Whether you are replacing the piston or rings or both, you you know what size to order?...There may be a number stamped into the piston crown. I dont know if you know this already. Tip, as you are sliding the barrel off and before the piston exits the bottom of the barrel, thats when you should by habit stuff the rags around the case mouth...just in case the rings are broben and to prvent them or anything else falling in there. No special tools required, give us a shout when you are ready with the parts

However much you may dislike old Ray...that WAS definitely worth watching to the end.

First have a look at what they are screwing into, do the threads lookk in good shape? if so breath a sigh of relief. Next blow into the holes to expel any bits of debris (rag in crankcase mouth) screw the new studs in by hand until they bottom, then usind vise grips (mole grips) nip them up. If you havent got any vise grips you can lock two nuts together on the top of the stud and then nip the stud up using the top nut. Where are you Ryan, why dont you fill in your profile properly?

If you go to the workshop section and see if there are any parts manuals for the TY's, then you can count the cogs on the gearbox layout

So you said you hoped it was not the actual holes the studs go into Thats when I thought that maybe as you tightened the nut on the head you would either see the stud pulling up through the nut OR the whole lot would just spin round. Either way this is very bad news and a new thread insert would have to be fitted into the crank case. Like I said it's not a job for an amateur and would mean buying a special insert kit and drill as well. do the threads in the case look good or have they gone?

No Ryan it's not rideable like that you will do it no good. It sounds like it needs new rings and who knows? maybe even a rebore, the black marks are signs of 'Blowby', this happens with worn piston rings or a worn bore. the gaskets will need replacing, be sure not to get any debris into the crank case when removing all traces of the old one, stuff a rag in there while you clean it up. I am concerned about this rounding...It isnt pulling the stud out of the case is it? I hope not as it would need a thread insert which is no job for an amateur,

No they are great bike but they are an aerodynamic fail when it comes to going gteat speeds, They arent built for speed although a good one will do 70 / 80 flat out. There are other bikes that have a better frontage for fast speeds.

Hope you wont be too disappointed mate when you clean off some of the rust and find......

If that's what YOU do it's fine by me

1: I cant see that being right about using a tank of 2T for two tanks of fuel...no way. On the RXS can you see the level of 2T in the tank...mark it with the bike upright and monitor it. smoke from the exhaust would be a good sign too.

I'll put money on it it's a DTR

Adjust the throttle stop screw to achieve an idle. Note the position of the air mixture screw and turn it clockwise until it gently seats, it should be around 1 and 1/2 turns out from this position, Now...did moving the mixture screw affect the engine speed at all, it should really get a bit lumpy as you screw this in. Edit: In another thread you said the 'o' ring was missing from the mixture screw...so did you replace it? you didnt say!

Was it good before the air filter clean? What type of air filter is it? How did you clean it? Did you oil it before re-fitting? You say it splutters with the choke off...is this with a cold engine of a warm engine?..

It should be ON constantly when neutral is selected, this is a bulb check function so you dont get caught out with a blown bulb. When in gear if it is ON at any point...top up the 2 stroke oil and it will dissappear. It has nothing to do with gearbox oil, that's just a dipstick check.

does you carb float bowl have a drain screw? Try draining it... it might have some water in it.

Good intro moggy, if you do learn anything useful about riding bikes be sure to let me know

OK Garfield, it's gone Nice little bike, welcom to the forums.

Could be any number of reasons, what other forum are you getting help from? Myself I would meticulously clean the carb first and blow through all the little passages in the carb body with compressed air. Re-assemble and set the float height and mixture screw. If that didnt cure it, then I would take meter readings of my magneto coils and ignition coil to see if they are out of spec. How many wires connect to the CDI ?

sounds like a plan, or more likely to have liquid gasket, try that...try anything !! Clean off all traces of oil first.

I havent heard of this washer you speak of, however this is what I found in my DT175 header pipe. Theres no way it is affecting your performance as badly as you report though.

I dont suppose you have any pictures of that?

What is the air filter like...does it need a clean? Not sure about the carb on the DT175E ...whether or not the needle is adjustable fot height or not like the UK bikes were What do you mean by gutted the exhaust?

Hi smokin, I'm not sure what the procedure is but maybe our mervin will know, he will no doubt direct you to the aircooledrd forum http://www.aircooledrdclub.org.uk/forum/active_topics.asp or of course the VJMC WILL be able to help ...Paul