Airhead

ok fit new points and condenser, adjust the point gap as per spec and time it as will be in the haynes book. Hopefully that will fix it.

About 75 at its fastest maybe a touch more. The clock tops out at 80

Well have a good old read of the haynes book, see if it mentions the auto advance, a giveaway will be if you can twist the points cam back and forth, that will mean it does have one (unless its siezed up, then you might not be able to tell) anyway i'm sure there will be a pic in the haynes book, basically all it does is throw some bob weights outward as the engine speed increases, in turn the movement of these weights turns the points cam which advances the ignition timing. as revs fall springs pull the weights back in and the timing retards again. is that clear

Right thats not good, you should fit new points and another new condensor. I dont know the bikes make-up. Has it got a auto spark advance fitted, theses can easily sieze up and be stuck in one place...or on the other hand they can wear and this usually means they will be too advanced at low revs. Has it got one? Have you got a Haynes book? Can you fit new points and time the bike? Can you tell if it has an auto advance and whether it is working correctly?

Have a look at the points, are they burned and pitted? Are they sparking when the bike is running?

webi does this bike have points and a condensor (capacitor) ?

It is mate, at one time they were available in black or chrome. Only seem to see chrome ones these days.

I'm confused, is the switch now back in service? The Black/White is the engine kill when it is connected to ground. Withe the key OFF this would be connected to ground and the spark would be lost. If the key switch is not working disconnect this wire and spark should work. Then connect it via another switch to ground if you want an engine kill

Sorry Drewps I didnt

Hi and welcome to another retro DT fan so are you saying the engine races but the throttle slide is closed?, you have not put the slide in the wrong way round have you? The cutaway should face the airbox.

Nice one Jason, Good to see a proper pic of the DT, is it road legal now then?

I've got two DT's mate, dunno owt about XV's though,

Oohh I thought yours was a later one, ( its the square swinger that throws me), dont get me wrong mine isnt bad but somehow I dont think its good enough. I think i'll connect a strobe and see if the advance is working first job. I have a 6 wire CDI and a backplate for the 6 wire CDI version and a mag rotor too for that version. The whole backplate needs re-wiring though so it will give me something to tinker with.

Welcome to the forum

Your motor sounds to be real sweet now Jason, "shoots round to 10K", mine wont do that no way..I'm considering converting it to a 6 wire CDI now as a winter project. The 6 wire was evolved from my 7 wire two coil set-up as you know. I am thinking it must be a better set up so am going to do it. How did the MOT go and the piccies?

Ouch! is the ebay stuff new or used?

Haha, dont mess with Ogri

I went, billy no mates but still had a good day, loads of cruiser and Harley types there but in amongs them were some real gems, like the guy on a Gilera 50 touring I was chatting to. Ooh and a brace of aircooled RD's and a very nice 1966 YDS3. Ooh and a lovely DT175 with a new tank cover on

Hi O_M. When slowing for lights I go down down down but only to second, then just before the bike stops snick it into neutral, It's easier on the clutch and stops any tendency for the bike to pull a little for example if the engine was cold and the oil thick. Well thats what I do but nobodys watching me As the running in goes it sounds like you know what youre doing and the engine is easy so carry on with it. Tyres I dunno, try avoid the worst of the ruts and check your pressures are good.

I would try to eliminate the oil pump as the culprit. To do this just unfasten the small oil line from the carb spigot and block off the spigot with your finger, does this lower the idle? To bleed it just fill the oil tank up then remove the small screw with a gasket under it that is at the top of the oil pump. Let the oil run until any bubbles stop. There is also a 'Priming' operation to be done, when the engine is running hold the pump pulley fully open for around 30 seconds to allow maximum stroke and push the oil through faster.

Throwovers will fit loadsa bikes

In the Honda book? I hope this is a typo! In the Yamaha book it says 0.75 Litres at oil change, anyway did you check it in the window after the oil change. If I were you I would top it up until you see oil but you have to run and stop the engine and have the bike upright to check the oil window. It might be worth having a look in the radiator too, you said a grey colour...when the water pump seal good you get a milky colour. As for not starting I dunno, did it run out of fuel?

Sad to see bike shops closing, thats where I bought my Bandit from