Airhead

It will be 6 wires mark part# 3J0 85540 20 and I still say everything else should be eliminated first, but i will add that Ian was a little bit 'economical' with what he said and for all I know his could be missing

Thats cheap, free delivery too Got a link?

Greetings Ian. I dont know of anywhere as an alternative to ebay but will have a look around. Are you aware that it is the same CDI as a later version DT175? and have you done all the checks because replacing the CDI is the very last thing to do if you have no spark. CDI's can be costly http://cgi.ebay.fr/boitier-CDI-Yamaha-DT-125-MX-DTMX-86-91-neuf_W0QQitemZ140476723423QQihZ004QQcategoryZ117551QQcmdZViewItem ...Paul

The top picture with the very small coil on it, that's a pulser coil as the flywheel turns it gives the CDI a signal when to discharge its stored energy from its in built capacitor CDI is an acronym for 'Capacitor Discharge Ignition' apparently your bike doesnt have a pulse coil and the CDI is triggered by the strength of the voltage from the source coil

1:51 am yeah Michael its a bugger when you cant sleep because of a weak spark eh? i must admit i was confused for a while as this bike doent actually have a pulser coil does it? The reading is much higher than 180 Ohms as is often the case with dirty or corroded contacts. I assume you checked it via the black and black/red at the loom socket? The black is bolted to the chassis of the stator plate so check you have a dead short from the black at the socket to the stator plate, and then to the coil grounding lug...you should have. Typically the black wire will be screwed to the back of the stator plate and the coils will be grounded to the stator plate via their mounting pillar bolts. Have a look at the pictures here at the top of the first pic you will see how the coils are grounded under the mounting screws and how the black wire is terminated to the back of the stator plate Although they are not pictures of your stator assembly ( DT175MX ) so the final concusive test of the coil would be to check between the black/red wire and the coil grounding lug beneath the mounting screw. ...Paul I expect yours will be similar

Haha where do you dig them up from

Hi Nicky this is such a common problem with any bike. what I do is select neutral from second just before I stop. i realise this may be contrary to what a learner may be taught but i'm not a learner. Welcome by the way ...paul

It's a batman mask john

Heythuysen. Merry Xmas everyone.

yeah, had a look at his neg feedback, ok he has'nt got a lot of it but his response is poor, theres more pmsl's and lmao'fs than on the DTR forum

no mate its just well overpriced junk! The original thread was NOS buy it now for £130 a headlight grille for my bike. The seller had bought it not long before for £45. Just thought i'd resurrect the thread

more expensive patina http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT125-DT125-MX-DT125LC-FRONT-WHEEL-/220701831960?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3362dab318

Yes the Oz ones are the best, seen them too. they even fill arenas in their own right now.

December 79, my favourite band were at number 1 for 5 weeks, Pink floyd...Another brick in the wall. They only did 3 gigs and I went to see them at Earls Court. Happy Birthday Pat

Best runs and meets, Best meet squires hands down, best run...2Wheels pulled out all the stops to get there burning the midnight oil to change a tyre followed by an epic journey on the most uncomfortable bike I have ever ridden. Best photo Best Moderator, Drewpy for keeping us entertained on a regular basis, the others arent a 'Patch' on old Drewps Best new member CBD, also moved mountains to make squires, I really didnt think he would make it but that lad has determination by the barrow load. Done some epic rides since on the wee 125 175 250 Best wit, barky...keep em coming mate.

Damn I knew I could, i've been looking for that same video

Vez give 'Keyfax' a ring (opposite Dukinfield town hall), they do vehicle keys there, see if they can help

Nahh it's buster bloodvessel

vise grips..AKA 'Molegrips'

Oh you mean those descriptions Yeah nut splitter would be a better term...and crashbars . Am I close?

Welcome Latelifecrisis ok give us a try, give us some female part descriptions then

she's a gobbler

DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short Black male connector...as above Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says

yes i remember the thread in question did you replace the valve and seat or just the valve. I must say i've had this trouble too with new valves passing. Also there is a gasket under the seat it needs to be there to revent fuel coming down through the threads but this would cause a leak as bad as p1$$ing out