Airhead

Google DT175E and you will see the resemblance

Greetings ArchilleDuCharme is that your real name or are you really Albert Bradley

You hear that Jason, clamp it in a vise

Greetings Fozzy

If it were me I would have the £20 6v regulator in mind too, connected to the AC side of the rectifier (white), perhaps speedshop will comment? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamha-DT-100-125-175-250-400-XT-New-Regulator-QR498-/390207355387?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5ada2bb9fb

Cheers Merv thats made me feel a lot more at ease with it, I will try to get a replacement first in due course and maybe investigate this one later, theres not too much slack certainly not 1/2 inch.

Hey cheers Merv, I didnt know how they were constructed, I assumed it was a rigid fix...hope mine's like that. Still I suppose 38000 miles isnt all that bad, thats roughly all the way to Australia and back.

Jason if its an early one can you check out the basket for me plz...its play in the rivets or whatever...between the basket and gear. Ta

I'm erring on the side of that one Drewpy, but if it goes it will be a harder job to undo the centre nut?

They are different part numbers, they both have 71 teeth I think but I need an early one, without examining the two I couldnt say why they are different but all engines have the same primary drive pinion.

Give it a go with caution if you like but thats your choice.

since this thread has 'morphed' into one of voltage regulation, perhaps you might read this one Mike

your reply Quote it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at... a good old 6 volt one is simple basically a zenier diode as the 70's evolved some of the 12v rectifiers also served the purpose of voltage regulation, which then added more diodes to the unit to turn the AC output from the generator to DC .. I.E cutting the wave form in half, then passing the resultant current to another diode which managed the supply to the battery (this diode went O/C if too much current was applied and stopped battery charging). 6V systems just tended to boil the battery (hence the phrase rectum fryer as most batteries were placed under the saddle), but later 6V systems added extra diode to make sure the battery did not boil You start with it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at He said it has 2 pins yet you go off on a tangent of weird and wonderful voltage regulation...can this really be done with 2 pin connection then? In my experience regulation needs a further connection down to chassis...but i'm young so maybe i'm wrong

Put some new friction plates in the DTMX today and whilst doing it I discovered some backlash between the basket and drive gear. It could have been developing for ages for all I know. Thing is it's pecking my head now because I was going to the Blackpool triples club rally on it. I have a dog rough engine at work but it's not stripped and I wouldnt expect much judging from the overall condition of it, not sure I even have the time to strip and change it even if it is good. ...do I use it...fully loaded over belmont hill...decisions decisions. EDIT Come to think of it i'm pretty sure the rough spare engine is a later model and the clutch has a different part number

If you dont have a Yamaha agent nearby then Yambits will get one and post it to you...cant do better than that.

GREETINGS LEE

Yup...that's the one

Nahh you can definitely see an airgap appear under his back wheel (by the shadow) He's grounded something and lifted it.

Mam Tor, my neck o the woods

Greetings tassie

Ouch! Jason I think he might have meant 'turn it over' as in rotate the crank in the oil Still its a non starter unless he has a huuuge budget, and lots of time.

use the search function, there is a 'sticky' from when I did my DTR. The RE would be similar but you have to ground a wire from the CDI (green/black but check first)

Too much air in the tank?

+1 Canny lad only has 2 pins as he said in his opening post so its just a bog standard diode.

Greetings Brian Lovely bike, and California too...you got it made mate