Airhead

not sure about the smell, thats a bit worrying! water in the carb bowl can do this symptom though, try draining the bowl.

so you didnt read the thread then, its electric pulse operated!

bry you would be advised to remove your phone number and replace with any problems ,send me a PM

weird indeed, just looked in a manual and has it at 9 wires on the wiring diag The DTMX has 2 connectors, a four way and a 6 way

what connector does it have, just a 4 way? maybe this? My link

Greetings kel I would investigate a dirty start button contact, try giving it a spray with contact cleaner and give it a visual once over.

Its mervin's day Have a good one mate

They are just nutters, bet theres a lot of injuries to deal with. I think you should propose it for the scouts drewps...when I was in we played 'British Bulldog' and that was rough and tumble but I suppose these things arent allowed any more (especially in hobnailed boots )

If it worked for you Phil yes that would be best first option, totally non destructive

sounds reasonable..lets hope so

Kyle your bike was running but having issues with flooding, looking back at the video i can see that this was the case but guessing about compression is no way to go, if you want to know get a proper test done or at the very least do the 'blow your thumb off' test which isnt all that good but it's better than nothing

Other option is sort the washer and take it to your local fab shop for tig welding, I dont much like arc in these situations. I expect only a few tacks will do it eh? whatever you decide let us know the outcome.

Greetings Paul, nice intro mate...good luck with the bearing removal

If its a bloody arc welder take precautions with spatter eh? Rawlbolt's are great for removing intact bearings, gives something to hit from the other side especially when the obligatory spacers make it nigh on impossible.

yes I see what you mean, I expect if you try removing the glass by prying it will break, it buggered anyway so good luck and a bucket of boiling water to soften the plastic is what i'd try, it'l probably end up broken though...your call

Try a new plug

Why does he think this? has someone done a compression test?

definitely not, if the blows are in the opposite direction required to remove it, I had a quick google and it seems to me jou need to have a substantial washer welded at 120 degree intervals to the outer race, a hole in the middle and use a slide hammer to knock it out, go easy on the weld as you dont want lots of heat. Consider how you will fix the slide hammer berore any welding...I'm open to other offers if anyone cares to add them. I assume you cannot hit it at all in the required direction?

is it sparking at the plug, you need to ground the plug to the engine when checking or ground it with a jump lead around the metal body to a bolt on the engine.

Why are you taking the head off?

You b4stard

The carb wont be ruined Kyle, it may need some attention...even a new part or so but its hardly the end of the world Meantime take out the plug tonight and leave it to stand...the longer the better. the excess fuel will evaporate. It's risky to continue riding it when it is awash with petrol like this because great quantities of unburnt fuel will be finding its way into the exhaust wich could be a fire / explosion risk. Tame your enthusiasm and leave it to stand is what I say

Thats a tough one Paul! how did you manage to break it?

Pull the clutch in...is it still there?

Have you tried 'power bands' ? much cheaper than V Tech solenoids unless you get one from a scrapper