Airhead

order some new screws from yambits or get a good set of mole grips and gently grip the heads of the screws to loosen then, dont overdo the grip or you'll make matters worse. They wont be all that tight. Dunno about the mixture screw. Always use well fitting screwdrivers though or you will damage screws when they slip.

Yes like I said you should stop messing with it, remove the plug and leave all that excess fuel to evaporate over at least 3 days in my opinion Thanks Jim this to me is key to the problem here, bloody technology causing trouble, what use is an auto choke for riding it around a block of garages...no wonder it's flooded. Whats the betting our kyle is always starting it up just to see it run, hear it, smell it...just lie we'd have done all those years ago. Trouble is now it's dumping fuel in and never getting hot enough to switch off, least we could just push the lever / knob back in just as soon as possible.

Rock on

I would drain the bowl before going to all that bother, sometimes you will see a drain screw at the bottom, if so catch any fuel that comes out rather than letting it go everywhere.

welcome amongst us marc, nice bikes are YBR's

not sure about the smell, thats a bit worrying! water in the carb bowl can do this symptom though, try draining the bowl.

so you didnt read the thread then, its electric pulse operated!

bry you would be advised to remove your phone number and replace with any problems ,send me a PM

weird indeed, just looked in a manual and has it at 9 wires on the wiring diag The DTMX has 2 connectors, a four way and a 6 way

what connector does it have, just a 4 way? maybe this? My link

Greetings kel I would investigate a dirty start button contact, try giving it a spray with contact cleaner and give it a visual once over.

Its mervin's day Have a good one mate

They are just nutters, bet theres a lot of injuries to deal with. I think you should propose it for the scouts drewps...when I was in we played 'British Bulldog' and that was rough and tumble but I suppose these things arent allowed any more (especially in hobnailed boots )

If it worked for you Phil yes that would be best first option, totally non destructive

sounds reasonable..lets hope so

Kyle your bike was running but having issues with flooding, looking back at the video i can see that this was the case but guessing about compression is no way to go, if you want to know get a proper test done or at the very least do the 'blow your thumb off' test which isnt all that good but it's better than nothing

Other option is sort the washer and take it to your local fab shop for tig welding, I dont much like arc in these situations. I expect only a few tacks will do it eh? whatever you decide let us know the outcome.

Greetings Paul, nice intro mate...good luck with the bearing removal

If its a bloody arc welder take precautions with spatter eh? Rawlbolt's are great for removing intact bearings, gives something to hit from the other side especially when the obligatory spacers make it nigh on impossible.

yes I see what you mean, I expect if you try removing the glass by prying it will break, it buggered anyway so good luck and a bucket of boiling water to soften the plastic is what i'd try, it'l probably end up broken though...your call

Try a new plug

Why does he think this? has someone done a compression test?

definitely not, if the blows are in the opposite direction required to remove it, I had a quick google and it seems to me jou need to have a substantial washer welded at 120 degree intervals to the outer race, a hole in the middle and use a slide hammer to knock it out, go easy on the weld as you dont want lots of heat. Consider how you will fix the slide hammer berore any welding...I'm open to other offers if anyone cares to add them. I assume you cannot hit it at all in the required direction?

is it sparking at the plug, you need to ground the plug to the engine when checking or ground it with a jump lead around the metal body to a bolt on the engine.

Why are you taking the head off?