Airhead

Greetings ormer

Greetings samir I see youve met Dirty Den DT

Greetings and you seem to know all about the good things in life

Greetings Visigoth...what picture yep they are a great bike

Greetings Carl

no its welded all the way round see the link I posted earlier, I bought some dremel metal cutting disks because they are good quality and very thin and also an arbor for them, If I remember I had to wear them down just a little before I could cut in the right place. I dont think your pipe is aftermarket from the glimpse I got on the video. http://aird-tools.co.uk/shop/dremel-speedclic-metal-cutting-wheels-pack-sc456-p-5760.html The compression ratio is 6.8:1 for your bike so 6.8 x 14.7 = 100 psi That would be more like it 150 psi indeed

Try talcum powder

Greetings Steve,

I never bothered with toque setting here, always just nipped them up, the wind direction of the springs would stop them unscrewing also.

sorry Sarah and Gordon but I dunno, it's not a common or garden bike so have no experience with scoots However I would be surprised if special tools were needed for such a common task. I take it you've had a look see and cant fathom it?

If it really is trashed then helicoil is the answer, not so sure about no tear down though as this involves drilling the old thread out and tapping a new one for the insert...either way it's a job for the pro's I would say.

can you describe in more detail "clutch sticking"

The tap is working incorrectly, it should operate thus normal fuel stopped res fuel stopped Prime fuel flows This would be correct for a vacuum operated tap without any vacuum applied (engine stopped) so it looks as though someone had built the tap incorrectly? Carb overflow is down to a valve passing as has been said.

no way you will see 150psi, you have lots of compression according to your test, thats why I said check the pipe header...I have seen a post from a USA owner who found this in his bike also and would struggle to red-line the rev's. Its easy to check the header...much easier than changing seals or rings without having any evidence to do so...I'll see if I can find the old post of that restriction / revving issue but dont hold your breath and if I remember correct the poster didnt come back to update !! Edit No none of his posts are there any longer so I cant link it.

I used to walk or cycle that far to school.

+1 for the nitromors, it works well. Goes without saying to be careful not to splash or drip it anywhere else...Dohh I just said it!

Re-bore Phil? They will supply a quality mitaka piston and rings to suit

Glad I put my waterproof on...peed it down all the way home...diesel all over the road for 10 miles and not just the bends Had a good day though and enjoyed your company DDT and Dan, must say I like Lincoln.

she's a lovely looking little bike isnt she. Sounds almost restricted, check the exhaust header...some where resricted on later bikes (and later exhausts fitted to early bikes) and it will limit the revs.

Could be an awkward one Buy a couple more spark plugs and try them first.

Greetings John,

Which one do you fancy

Try Fowlers of Bristol, or Granby....give them a ring

Greetings Finch

no starter fluid isnt normal behaviour, you may have a lack of suction and this could be bad crank seals... a quick test of the seals without any special tools. Magneto side, remove cover start engine and spray WD40 through slots in flywheel aiming the jet toward the seal, listen for a change in tone or engine speed. Clutch side, place the transmission case breather pipe in a jar with some white spirit in, Start the engine and look for bubbles or for the fluid being drawn up the pipe. I wouldnt start casting doubt over the jet, and definitely do NOT fit one smaller than spec. If you cannot resist then fit a 140. Yor choke is imprinted so if you can find another I would get one they are common to many mikuni carbs of the type.