Airhead

Cool

more likely to just stay on i would think

Greetings Jack..whats up

great bike denny

Alex peoples signatures and avatars have gone..probably much more too, and the post count is up the chuff also

yeah i feel for you Dean it's crap. I take there is a time frame and you are within it?

might be worth asking the seller here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-RXS100-L-H-engine-cover-/260582745229?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cabf1248d

yeah it stinks, you will have to shop around...do the online ones and you may find that some ask for driving convictions only...it would be time consuming but may be worth it.

Hmm i've never seen one of these can you PM me some pictures I would like to see it?

DEP sound good, are you sure yours doesnt just need re-packing though?...much cheaper than replacing it

I just posted a link to one...ask, the very fact thats it's black suggests ita a rubber COATED one to me as for water pump seal gone, this will give a milky appearance to the gearbox oil so dip it and see

very nice Andy, bet it's a hoot to ride

LOL what a swap

Why not have a go at painting the plastics yourself, blue ones are hard to find...mine's blue so i know.

WOW! she's like new

me too

Here is the standard reed and cage I fitted boyessen 2 stage reeds to mine Here is the standard inlet manifold Lots of people are led (wrongly) down the path of chopping off all the rubber moulding that enters the reed cage, myself I just chopped some off and left some on as it is used to direct the fuel air cleanly to the reeds...this is what I did as for main jet...it would be wise to jet 10 points higher, for example from 240 to 250

B40 will be the best, the D5 will be excruciatingly slow

This looks like one, ask the seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gasket-Top-Set-Yamaha-DT125R-TDR125-1988-2004-/280474351304?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item414d92f6c8 Dont forget a 7mm thin smear around just the bore circumference both sides http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40G-CLEAR-SILICONE-INSTANT-GASKET-RTV-SEALANT-/140565596435?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item20ba5cc913

Greetings Szwed

so you ran a wire direct from the battery + to the ignition switch? did I interpret this right or have you still got the fuse in line? power to the headlamp is possibly direct from the magneto same as my DT175, the battery feeds the pilot lamp, indicators, tail lamp stop lamp, neutral lamp and dash (clock) lamps and horn.

Theres a quick and easy test for crank seals I wouldnt have trusted the repro carb though Left crankseal would be prone to suck air and run lean and hard to start, right seal would be prone to burn transmission oil and be rough running and smoky

Totally new but a genuine one or re-produced?

Clive it would help if you fill in your profile, It's no use asking if anyone is local and not saying where you are! If it comes to it...I could post you yet another carb to try. or we could take it through the forum and you examine your carb and see if all the components and settings are as they should be. I already posted the details of this earlier

I see the government petions website has crashed and will be re-instated Friday, the target of 100,000 signatures to evict ner-do-wells or their families from council homes if found guilty has been surpassed and so the MP's will have to discuss it (by their own rules). It will be open for more voting Friday guys if you care to add to it.