Airhead

Addendum Make damn sure you have removed every last srew from the cases before using mechanical means to part them, some engines have screws in concealed places Thats more or less the way i do my DT cases but using the bearing retainer screwthreads and pushing on the end of the crankshaft.

Now she's a pretty lass for sure

Greetings Christian

Greetings Chris

I use motul transoil in my gearbox these days but pretty much you could use anything (not car specific) top yoke is aluminium always was...must be the mongrel forks you have fitted 175's were all CDI but early 125's had points, perhaps yours is a 125 bottom end (engine#) 2A8 or the CDI packed in and someone adapted it

Super intro Yeah doesnt look a bad un, a rarity in blue too ...any questions just ask Greetings and ...Paul

mines 1 1/2 turns and from experience its pretty normal

no

youre gonna have to take pictures of the problems i dont understand what you are getting at! can you post pics tomorrow? and please remove your sig picture its way too big

yes the days when we had factories, and jobs...and SMOG!

Not sure what you are saying here...do you mean bullet connectors?

does any thing work without the engine...the horn for example

great bikes

its fuel injection is it? with a carburated bike this would mean a headache with jetting and carb tuning to prevent it from running lean and overheating...how does this work with injected bikes? also eliminating the filter means all manner of dust, grit and contamination is free to enter the engine...not good for its longevity. There is also the matter of answering the question 'any modifications?' that insurance companies ask these days

does it reach 100psi then? thats not bad in my book for a cold engine

Good work Mike

yeah ok i made you one today

At a guess I would say someone fitted a YZ swingarm

I am wondering about the condition of the reed valve now, next time you get the carb off have a look there...maybe the petals are bent or seating on dirt and thus you are getting back pressure in the carb...its an easy check so have a look-see. You could also try it without the air filter fitted in case it's dirty or blocked, it will be fine for a small run around the block but obviously not prolonged use. also what did you mean all or nothing...of course you dont mean the overflow? nothing would be good there

The float height may be out but it really shouldnt stop it from starting...you could always switch the tap off when the carb is full. It may be that the throttle stop screw (the knurled one) isnt in far enough to allow air through, especially as the carb has been stripped. as for float height adjustment dont try doing it with the carb fully inverted because the weight of the float will push down the spring loaded pin in the needle valve, rather...turn the carb on its axis just until the float touches the pin without pressing on it and then measure the distance from the float bottom to the surface the gasket mates to on the carb body (below the gasket with the carb inverted), you will see a cut-out notch in the flange to aid measurement. Remove the float if adjustment is needed and bend the central tab slightly to achieve the correct measurement. This may give you an idea but use the measurement given for yours

Sounds great NEV, shame I can't smell it

the clutch has nothing to do with running lean, you need to get it adjusted, perhaps there is too much slack in the cable?...perhaps it needs adjusting in the engine? Also check the oil level is correct.

Try a new plug first even though it is sparking. open the fuel tap and close it...you do have overfilling issues. you may have flooded the crankcase somewhat with attempts to start it so leave the plug out overnight to allow evaporation. use choke but no throttle or very little

wow a 160 jet with an old type filter, has the filter cover been butchered drilled in the usual way ? is there a problem with how it runs then?

Try adopting this method when down shifting. Pull in clutch Blip the throttle Downshift Let out clutch in quick succession