Airhead

Greetings benny

here we go, its a major strip down and crank removal...like i said earlier, worst case scenario @ drewpy...to me its either bucket/shim or tappets, tappets are not exclusive to pushrod engines my TTR600 OHC has them

some things cant be seen from pictures...when knocking occurs the worst case scenario would be a shot big end bearing, but how you have determined it's the back cylinder if that's the case is beyond me. its not a tapping sound then as the tappets?

remind us Jimmy so we dont have to hunt down your posts! what was apparently wrong with it?

I dont see how the test light would work but if the ammeter showed no current flow with the key of, that to me is a clean bill of health. Coupled with what you said earlier about the voltage increase across the battery I would say alls well...maybe with the exception of the battery itself or there is a bad connection somewhere...sounds a tricky one I was expecting some current flow that may have righted itself with the reg/rec being unplugged. I'm stuck too now!

a test light?... explain so you disconnected the battery on one terminal and connected an ammeter between the cable and battery...is this right?

How have you rested for this, an ammeter in series with the battery?

i didnt mean pop in when you want to mate what i meant was........ oh never mind lol

sorry to hear the sad news Jim but its good to know youre OK and yeah just pop in when ya want to mate

if youre powder coating the frame ask then NOT to shotblast the frame VIN number, this is most important!!! strip this area yourself with nitromors and a wire brush

Greetings klock and

Thats just shit Billy, sorry to hear it fella! what were the circumstances of the theft, could it have been made more secure?

Greetings barky back...we've missed ya

mikuni carbs?

does it discharge overnight or longer?

Ollie its a 10v model, that should be enough info to buy a cable...try yambits or wemoto Exhausts are hard come by so make a good job of cleaning and painting it and keep it that way with regular re-paints

thats how they were sold in the Phlipines, Australia, South Africa and other places, no need to doubt its year or anything. They are indeed aircooled from standard, later ones had a disk brake. Based on the DT125 (MX) but the engine parts are different to its predecessor

you even had an hour lie-in with the clocks going back

Good luck Dave,

:pumpking:

try some WD40 around the ignition switch and the HT coils

try yuniparts Jay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-DT125-DT175-4J3-WIRING-LOOM-HARNESS-1980-1-QH019-/150614742756?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item23115696e4 Never seen a colour wiring diagram for these bikes

clive you need a manual, then look at the carb specs and compare with what you have

http://www.motorbikealarm.co.uk/ never had an alarm myself but these ARE silly money, our vez had one and it seemed good to me

regulator/rectifier springs to mind, stick a voltmeter across the battery and see if the voltage increases as the engine is revved