Airhead

if its been stored its a good bet the battery is knackered! Have you checked the voltage ?

seana click on the yambits link, confirm the colours and plug pinout are correct for the loom and then someone give yambits a call

what no oil burners

I referred back to post 4 because i suspect seana was checking magneto coils against info from an early haynes book, the one with the orange cover, as we know this book doesnt cover the readings for the mk2 anyway... this is not the problem with the lights so she should fit a proper switch with 4 positions. off, run, run with lights, and park The link looks out of date (too cheap) but its worth giving them a call http://yambits.co.uk...tch-p-3183.html

err isnt that what i just said?

seana as i posted earlier in this thread ...post #4 there are two ignition systems, clearly yours is a mk2 with those readings...you need a new ignition switch as well with the 4 positions

definitely not! most bikers would say the same

Damn a hard lesson learned, you have to be so careful with litter and debris in bends, you should rest it a few days but thats alright for me to say!

see FAQ's in the noobs forum

dont know aerox's but...kill switch off? battery good (horn working) ?

Try here blippy, you will no doubt get some response http://the2strokeforum.proboards.com/index.cgi

Greetings Jimmy, crikey you get through your bikes dont you...some great bikes there, always fancied a go of a v-max but it'll never happen

foamy to check the capacitor you will need a multimeter that can measure capacitance, a rarity. however you can check with continuity between the lead and the metal case, ther should be no continuous continuity. I assume the generator doesnt have a battery and runs a magneto type ignition? as far as the ignition coil goes check continuity between ... the cable to the coil and the metal coil mounting, this should be a low reading the plug lead and the metal coil mounting, this should be a high reading 5 thousand ohms (ish)...secondary winding If your capacitor is shorting it will prevent running...if this is the case try disconnecting it to see if you get a spark and if so get a new capacitor aka (condenser) another thing to look for... check the spring of the moving contact isnt touching anything as it's a 'live' part of the system. The moving contact sits on plastic insulating washers to isolate it from chassis

Greetings 'vampiro'

Thanks for the update stasch, glad you have it sorted now. Have fun on the little DT

sort one thing at a time, Engine run/stop with the igniiton key in OFF ...AND...OR the killswitch in OFF, then the black/white should short to chassis or black negative connections unplug the black/white and the black from the CDI and test at the two female loom bullet connectors Here is the main switch pinout

Congrats drewpy today eccles...tomorrow 'THE WORLD'... well done

running lights are on all the time

check fuel tank venting and remove the petrol feed from the carb and see if there is a good flow of fuel

jenolite... car spares shops, scotchbrite... wilkinsons... B&Q...poundshops, wire wheels...B&Q..., your garage

what are you referring to?

hes got a problem!

John, when I said I went to PJME I didnt literally 'go'...I posted, and you did say anyone in uk Standard is 66mm, 1st oversize 66.25mm

Greetings unzy, first read the other topic from 'columbo' and an intro is always good (New members forum)

yeah thats the way columbo watch and learn, maybe youtube will be useful, ? watch out for any nightschools in your area...ask at bikeshops if they know of anything. like the others have said its a shame were 300 miles apart! . . . . . 'One more thing' I just googled 'youtube adjust motorcycle' and got many offerings...dont ya just love the web