Airhead

sellers are often helpful if you ask questions, after all they want to shift stuff! ask them about the bolt hole centres, the distance from these centres to the end of the plunger when it's pressed in etc etc you can then check these dimensions against your frame fixings and the tab of the stand that presses the plunger etc

She lives!!! That was quite a journey mike...let us know how you get on when shes back on the trail

nice one, i think (radion) may be a usa model but not sure, post up a picture it would be good to see it Whats it like to ride

why not test your bulbs with a multimeter...or if you havent got a meter simply test them using your battery

now thats nice and in great condition, i see you are using photobucket...click on the bottom selection...the one starting IMG...you will see it copies...then just paste into the forum

without the benefit of part numbers i couldnt answer that

I would say gloss...they all were back in the day

Hi sham and welcome, if you buy the bike you will get lots of help from the members of this forum so no worries there, there are a couple of US DT175 owners on here right now

yes it makes sense, get a stand switch fitted if it was built to have one, for your own safety

yes i would say so Bryan

This is the new members forum and it's for intros like

Harry have you bashed you tank in at the front to accomodate the forks? the reflection is playing tricks with my eyes!

if they cant help for some reason have a word with west country windings with a view to having your old one re-wound to in-spec

i would suggest the sidestand switch isnt connected or isnt working thomas, test it with a multimeter

Greetings Drew and

1983 Chris

Paul i'm sure blackhat never said you were a scammer mate i know him better than that

I would ring electrex after the holidays and see what they say about the out of tolerance issue

??? did you sort it Paul?

rzman....see FAQ's subforum to the new members forum for posting pics

just touching, i find it best to hold the carb...not completely upside down but angle it until the float arm is not compressing the spring plunger into the valve...with the float pivot uppermost does your needle jet screw into the carb body then...rather that pressing in like the one in the pic? This is the type of our early ones too, they dont have an o ring fitted to the mixture screw so that's correct, they also have a small brass orifice (air jet) pressed into the carb mouth as in the pic, wheras the later ones dont also there is a really tiny passage from the mixing chamber of the needle jet that exits into bottom of the venturi behind the throttle valve...engine side (part of the pilot cct)

dunno, it is outside the recommended tolerances so shouldnt really be used! have you tried electrex world or west country rewinds,,,or ebay...or yamaha (fowlers)?..really you should use whats right

ah yes donballoon with an e on the end

yes classic mike, parts may be really hard to find though...good luck with that

how well did you strip and clean the carb Richard, did you have the needle jet (emulsion tube) out? typically you would find this when it needs to be this and of course the chamber this sits in needs cleaning out too I use a ultrasonic bath it does the job well but an aerosol carb cleaner would be a good second best...even better if compressed air (or an air duster) is to hand, Take care with 'O' rings such as the one on the air screw...best removed and not subjected to the carb cleaner. I think you are on the right track with further cleaning, it seems to me that you are getting round the problem of a blocked air mixture passage simply by raising the throttle slide enough to suck fuel up the needle jet and thus the idle is too fast another thing to check is the carb vent from the bowl and out the side of the carb...and the tube connected to it are clear If your main jet is too smalll dont take chances, get the right one fitted before you overheat or burn a hole through your piston crown