Airhead

Test with a multimeter NEV, are any of the spades connected to the iron core (no resistance)? if so you can either attach the black wire to this one or just not bother and rely on the mounting bolt...or both

Cheers mate, have a good one yerself too

FFS!!! Check the magneto rotor hasnt come adrift

Can i be frank...It's Paul Pete

is your chain loose, worn out, sprockets worn (front and back), teeth missing??? ...all generally neglacted and sad If the answer to any of this is YES you are risking personal injury or worse god forbid because if that chain breaks you can suffer serious injury! and engine case damage

maybe the last owner didnt chain it up John anyway, chains dont stop em!!!!

Greetings will good intro that

Theres plenty on the other thread you started

dont bind the loom with adhesive tape, use loom tape it's non adhesive and you only fasten it at its extremes with adhesive tape. This gives flexibility. what kind of connectors does the Guzzi have? What about the moulded multi pin connectors, how are you going to do them? dont use pre-insulated bullet connectors, use the froper ones with a proper crimp tool for that kind (cant think of the name of them) PM me your email address if you want a copy of something i scanned from a magazine re building your own loom Mervin will tell you where to get the correctly coloured cables and connectors from

car oil is not recommended at all, it causes clutch slip with bikes...it seems your mate isnt all that clued up about bikes? ant good make of oil will do, 10w 40 is OK

The website has errors then eh... care to post a link? like i said different mikuni VM carbs have different pilot jets! yours will be an M28/1001...order no 004-041 for #25, 004-596 for #27.5 see this link here...DT175 74 to 81 http://www.marshalldistributing.com/files/tech-info/sudcopilotjet.pdf if you can screw in your mixture screw without the motor stumbling the pilot jet fitted is too small....verify this when you get chance Richard

Greetings dohark good luck with finding the R6 see the subscriptions tab at the top of the page...membership is cheap

no shake during shitting eh

looks good to me http://www.google.co...pw.r_qf.,cf.osb

There are 2 adjustments Andy the first is to align the cable pulley marker and the plunger pin when the throttle is closed, use the cable adjuster for this then there is the pump stroke checking and adjustment start the bike idling and watch the front end of the pump, you will see it moving in and out of the pump body, stop the engine when it is out at its fullest extent. Measure using a feeler gauge the gap between the plate and the raised boss of the pump body, do not force the feeler gauge it should be a light sliding fit, the required spec is 0.2 - 0.25mm. if it's incorrect remove the pulley and you will find shims, add or remove shims to achieve the required measurement...usually this works out as adding shims which increases stroke

The carbon? you mean carb you'll no doubt have to strip it and clean it all out, it will have no end of gunk in there from a long time in storage, get an aerosol carb cleaner...and a compressed airline would help too

Greetings hayes

Greetings ratty

Greetings Tom

Greetings Andy

Greetings chuck Andy read the how to in FAQ's...part of the 'New members' forum

i doubt he will be back mate but we'll see

take it out, use a magnifying glass to verify it's blocked. clear it with a soft bristle pulled fron a nail brush or the like and blast some aerosol carb cleaner through it and the place from whence it came

Hmm no mot and you find the clutch slipping...you must have an awfully long driveway michael

almost definitely a blocked pilot jet, especially as it has been standing. The fuel in the bowl evaporates over time and forms a jelly like substance in the bore of the pilot jet. The way to prevent it happening when the bike is laid up is to open the fuel cock every month or so to top up the bowl....for future referance This...assuming it was warm enough to knock off the choke in the first instance