Airhead

Greetings Ted how are you finding the cat?

Nice intro fletch

Good choice fella

what i am saying is...yes the later mk2 had only 1 coil and no red, however the coil ohms value is different to the larger of the 2 coils in the mk1. You said you checked in the haynes manual and yours was in spec...but which model were they talking of? perhaps your stator coil is indeed out of spec?...all will become clearer when you study what i posted. do the checks that are applicable to yours it does seem it may be an electrical issue now that the choke made no difference

no not a lot...maybe a little, the main restriction is sometimes found in the front pipe, a tube in the header

it may take a little time to resolve your issues, gut feeling is carb, does it improve with choke on, ie lose the induction roar of a non firing engine? meanwhile.... DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Finally, if you are working with a box full of mixed parts! Mk1 1 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T250, it has two slots in the face of the flywheel Mk2 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T251, it has four slots in the face of the flywheel

yes thats ok

nahh it will be ok if it still rides well...dunna worry

Greetings Richard, yeah lets see

he's from SCOTLAND will greetings and :welcome;

Its on the steering head tube, the engine number is often the same

greetings corsur and back to the fold

have a good one gizmo

the early bikes has the red wire, they had two 'source' coils yours doesnt only the one. Which leads me to question your within tolerance statement because they have different values between the mk1 and mk2 ignitions. Do you want me to post up a head to toe tutorial for checking the ignition system...better than any haynes manual if i say so myself

i'm intrigued by your description that you have a DT175MX? that model name never occurred in USA, your equivalent models were DT175E,F,G etc However you did have an MX175 farm bike without lights and stuff then never came here, I think it was similar but not sure of the differences in any detail perhaps if you tell us the vin# we can clear that one up?

yes but my point is...if the regulator is faulty, this could be what is damaging the battery and possibly the CDI. I think you should check out the regulator function as a priority

Greetings nick, sent paul dawkins a message

nice one merv, put up a good picture when you get it

maybe your voltage regulator isnt working...havent we been here before?

It's not cheap sacha so it might not sell, that would give you more time to see it and make the guy a cheaper offer when you do so? dont forget he will have fees on his ebay sale...i wonder what the reserve is? mervin is the guy for RD's here

yeah i'd have blamed the neigbour if i'd done that

thats a novel way of doing it, did it work ...has the squeeking stopped then? I think you and your neighbour are pioneers with this one jordan, really breaking new ground here mate so no one will know the answer

Nice one wullie you did a great job on fixing that one up. wow what a mess that piston was in. Looks a nice bike...not one i'm familiar with though...a 350cc is a very unusual size nowadays...it's a twin cyl is it?

Michelin Pilot Road are reputed to be good, I too square off tyres and need a new set on my bandit..not sure what they will be yet though, cant grumble though i got 10000 out of the bridgestones