Airhead

you changed the points Callum, check they are clear of ground the spring is clear and the insulators are present and correct...it's been a long long time since i had a bike with points

Greetings Callum

Greetings Sprattes and some of the USA members may point you in the right direction but of course theres always ebay

Try B&C in Farnwoth (Bolton) for a tyre quote

why not just get a new inlet duct rubber? Theres nothing wrong with the standard airbox assy, no need to try to eliminate it

never mind dtr.net andy, see post #1 here

Thats not a restricion its part of the way the manifold flange is constructed, see post #1 in this thread

very nice dan sunshine and a double garage too

What are you two referring too...I must be missing something here

Greetings Jim Please leave this one just for the intro or you'll have two threads running at the same time

Hi Jim this is what you need DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Finally, if you are working with a box full of mixed parts! Mk1 1 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T250, it has two slots in the face of the flywheel Mk2 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T251, it has four slots in the face of the flywheel

Ahh just use the spacer or a bunch of washers

Perfect ...they were on mine

yeah he picked it up and it wouldnt start...so as tired as he was he had to push it the rest of the way and it was going dark

There is another option If it's only stripped low down on the thread down by the exhaist flange you could put a spacer under the nut to get back to some good thread as the studs are quite long

Greetings Chuck and

theres a good chance you will shear it off anyhow as it's only 6mm and wont be all that strong so take extra care...best thing will be heat and try to work it both ways gradually increasing any freedom you get with it

It is 7mm then see what i highlighted...

you could always buy a syphon and some jerry cans....yes the fuel should not free-flow in any position other than prime

all i asked for was a description, of course we know that you dont know what it is!!!! ive got it...you said near the clutch lever...that will be a left hand then theres something else in the picture but not sure about that, looks like its made of metal...maybe with some sort of rubber round id it...nope, just cant be sure...not a great picture. These models do have air scoops though perhaps you can see it here? http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1997/FZR600RJ/COWLING%201/parts.html

do you know the part number of the stud? this will give an idea of the size

i assume you can remove it with the tap in the ON posn, no fuel will come out because it needs the engine running to open the tap (vacuum operated)...just dont try it in PRIME as this bypasses the vacuum operation

I just think your stud size will be 7mm, it's no surprise to me that you measure the thread diameter at 6.7mm. is it an exhaust stud?...you didnt say

not a great picture either and no description of whats in the photo

looks good to me