Airhead

yeah but it's clashing with the aircooled RD rally drewpy!

did you check the PV..as NEV says it's all in the de restricting topic

so theres a spark? is fuel getting to the plug? is there compression? have you ever had the magneto flywheel off?

Thanks for posting the pics of this other form of restriction

Bet it says Y2 This is the 'YZ' head I had on my DTR

boats.net also

it must be getting in the crankcase from the RH seal and exiting through the LH seal...ie both seals gone. I suppose it's rungin smokey and rough? Dont foget to buy the RH crank collar 'O' ring too

Gearbox oil cannot leak from the LH crank seal Ed, Its either the sprocket seal or the gearchange shaft seal, crank seal can be done in situ as can gearchange shaft seal but cant remember whether the sprocket seal can, maybe Cynic will know?

have a read of this Brendon, see if it helps

seals will be still available from yamaha i think although i have never done it this way, you drill two very small holes into the front face of the seals 180 degrees apart, then screw in some appropriately sized self tapping screws and pull on the screws to remove the seals, A few other things to consider... You will need a flywheel puller, dont be trying with a 'legged' type, and smething to hold the engine solid while you both undo and torque up the flywheel nut, I use a chain type filter wrench and some rubber strips For the right seal you will need to lock the engine from turning so you can undo and re-torque the pinion nut, on this side I use a clutch tool but in the past i have removed the cylinder and passed a bar (socket extension) through the small end onto wooden blocks either side of the con-rod. Also for the RH seal you will find a spacer collar behind the pinion, it slides on the cranshaft and enters the seal, this collar is sealed to the crank by an O ring so buy one of those too I wouldnt advise holding the opposite side of the crank to the nut/bolt you are working on of course doing it the lazy way (and who could blame you) assumes your crank bearings are in great shape Have you a parts list Jim? Again...what of the spark issue!

your'e going to have a hard time finding the lanza parts as they werent imported to UK as I'm sure you are aware of! you will no doubt get the pillion pegs sooner or later on ebay or if you are lucky from someone here

According to my Haynes manual 12A is the restricted version of the RD125LC

Could be anything from a past it's best battery to connections on the 23 year old loom to unclean earth points I would go with earth points and battery first and is the battery filled to the correct level with de-ionised water? is it 6v or 12v by the way?

it all depends how bad it is in my view, I was happy to re-zinc a few parts and re-paint a few bits but then...it was bought as a winter hack and suffered the salt of every winter! The first to be done was powder coat the frame several times, and fit stainless bolts. Then my knees wore right through the tank paint and graphics down to the metal the result of 35000 miles of use...but that just got a touch up in that area. Only in the last couple of years did i decide to tidy her up and I'm glad I did. I never really did do a full restore I just did the stuff as and when I thought it needed it Yours naturally is much better than that and always will be because it wont be used to such a degree as that I agree just keep it nice and dont ride it it in winter, which you wont...will you?

as a temporary measure you should just be able to wrap the suspect area with PVC electricians tape shouldnt you? just in order to prove the theory

T-Cut? How deep?

so you have a spark...what was it then c'mon? Plug is dry...then it is very likely the crank seals are gone, you may get a temporary seal by squirting some engine oil at the left hand seal through the slots in the flywheel...perhaps you may draw enough vacuum to get a re-start but may be short lived...a good way to prove though if it works white stuff in carb...if it bothers you buy a set of those little scratch brushes...just the job

one last thing with the points open what resistance do you get from the moving point connection to ground?

so you have no spark? its late now will be back tomorrow

There would no doubt be a market for some of the old DT's you know?

Has it ever run?

was it running before you changed the points and condensor?

when you measured the voltage of 0.2v was your meter set to AC voltage setting?