Airhead

hone the barrel and fit new rings, at such low mileage the bore and piston will hardly be worn at all, my 175 has done 40000 miles and is only on the 2nd oversize piston

Hi Jim yeah removing the oil lines can be a bit of a pain theg grip the serrated spigots quite well, no amount of pulling then will do the job! You will have to slide back any metal clips warm the end of the lines some to make the pipe more pliable, then push the lines off the spigots , dont forget if you have oil in your tank you will need to drain it either before of after the biggest pipe is removed All a bit of a pain really, I wouldnt bother...just tie the blighter up out of the way and you can leave the feed pipe connected but you'll hace to disconnect the output pipe though, take care you dont lose the washer that goes onto the tacho drive gear shaft it always falls off and remember to re-fit it after youve done see the bootlace around the exhaust bracket you'll need a torque wrench to torque up the basket nut and you should fit a new tab washer, they come partly re-bent so are easy to get hold of with some sliding jaw gland type pliers...easy you will need to slacken both crank nut and basket nut together if you haven got a basket holding tool, I understand that the usual way is to stuff a bunch of rags between the pinions to lock them, although I have always used a tool myself, dont forget to replace the little 'o' ring on the crankshaft...under the collar

Be good to see you there Dave...when are you planning to turn up?

looks like this is going to be a cracking job

Greetings Dmac and yeah it would be nice to follow a project thread we dont see many YDS3 on here

dunno but how many ring connectors are there what colour wires are there what are the id marks adjacent to the screw connections do the id marks bear any relation to wire colour see my signature line

thats the root of your problem, its goog practice to replace the chain and sprockets together. Running a new chain on old sprockets will shorten the life of the new chain

why not change the sprockets then?

yes richard just copy and paste the photobucket browser link into your topic

by all means run on whatever oil you like but leave the shimming as it should be you cannot adjust the pump output Jim

Tis

looks ok to me but the best bet is to hone the barrel and fit new rings

Seaways Kev

R&G do a tail tidy for your bike uhe http://www.rg-racing.com/browseType/Tail_Tidies/Yamaha/DT125X/LP0055BK.aspx

Greetings and uhe

yeah inside and outside spokes are a different angle...why were they all the same?

yeah TYtrials will give you good advice for sure

Greetings Jim and welcome, yeah i'd be pissed off to about the insurance on the little TY!...Surely a mistake

Nice work

yes thats a standard mk1 airbox and looks the same as a 175's, If its holding water it looks like you have it sealed up ok

yes I didnt realise it could also be an issue with the bottom bearing! that one should sit flush down on the bottom yoke, sure freeze the stem and warm the bearing for that one

mines a large white with blue detail Steve...Thanks

no thats not right Sam, that top bearing is sitting way too high it doesnt look to be seated to me make sure there are no burrs stopping the fixed race from seating. Place the bearing in the deep freezer for an hour before fitting Warm the top of the headstock up before fitting the chilled bearing work quickly and try to re-fit Dont use your new yoke to try to pull it down, use a long bolt 16mm diameter or some screwed rod if possible, keep the strain away from that fine thread on the yoke stem

Greetings Em-J and

i didnt realise there wrere differences between the 125 and 175 airboxes, I must say that your picture did look a little unfafiliar at the left hand side (air intake)? but the picture wasnt clear enough to see properly I'm away on holiday at the moment this week and next but I think I have a spare airbox at work