Airhead

Greetings Lee, that rear guard will need more clearance eh?

we wont hold our breath then Greetings and

emulsion tube AKA 'Needle Jet' Richard Have you got a parts list Rob? you may find the number in the 'Service Data' Done a bit of 'Googling' is this it? you're lucky NW Vintage have them http://www.partspitstop.com/pages/OemParts#%2fYamaha%2fDT3_-_1973%2fCARBURETOR%2fDT3_(1973_MOTORCYCLE)%2fCARBURETOR_(DT3_-_1973) http://www.nwvintage...-28-00&st=spart

Greetings Mark good intro fella

You mean 'do' ? running in ?

Greetings Darren yeah that a beauty, how new?

I would recommend a bigger main jet myself they dont cost much, I know the original was 130 but I dont trust modern petrol that much myself it's certainly not the same as it was in 1979...buy a 135 and a 140, fit the 140 first and if it doesnt bog down all well and good ...if it does then try the 135...thats what I'd do. Pistons are expansive...jets arent. If you do this dont buy pattern jets either, genuine ones from allens is the way to go

going away from the the fuel overflow so what was the cause of the holed piston? incorrect (advanced) ignition timing? Main jet too small? Both? What?

you misunderstood me perhaps, are the reeds sealing well as a one way valve?

It happened to me once after fitting a new float valve, just a few drips though usually when coming to a halt, it aventually went away...just doesnt seem to do it any more. is the reed block sealing well...have you tested that?

Well having read this and looked in the parts book, I can clearly the the hole in the diagram...so it's standard. Ah well it's been a while since I saw one so I forgot...apologies.

Pete i take it you set the 21mm float height with the spring loaded pin uncompressed?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_263765_langId_-1_categoryId_255243

Its a tad more awkward than an aircooled one Gary, but you're on the right tracks with draining the coolant first. buy a genuine yamaha gasket or an 'Athena' brand one, they are rubber coated and far better than the cheap pattern all metal ones. yes use a torque wrench but theres a few of the head nuts that you will find nigh impossible to get a socket on so you'll have to guestimate these with a ring spanner

It's most likely the exhaust gasket but hey...cant say for sure. you shouldnt be riding it with the head gasket leaking....you could warp the head!

Greetings and Nigel

AndyDtr08 has one of those bikes send him a PM with a link to here, he will be able to point you in the right direction re the fuel tank cap operation

it's a silencer box, it quietens any induction roar but to be honest there isnt really any induction roar if you remove it

no thats been drilled, however not many people stick with that contraption it usually gets removed early in the bikes 'life' Tape it over if you want standard

the long central mark is the one, the shorter marks are the + or - tolerance marks so actually anything between the marks is deemed ok...increase the idle speed to around 3000 rpm

do you mean the float retaining pin Phil? if so this cannot slide out because the shape of the actual bowl holds it in when the bowl is re-fitted

could be timing related if someone had set it wrong but there again and more likely than that is the carb vent or the pipe attached to it is blocked

haha must be joking...4 years!!!

is the TPS ok then? has it passed 'The Test' ?

have you got a manual... If it were me i'd be checking the throttle position sensor at this stage, its an easy test with a multimeter and is detailed in the manual, basically it is a variable resistor mounted on the carb so its simply to test if it is within spec...if it isnt or has gone open cct it will affect the ignition timing