Airhead

That is correct kelum They developed this method to stop engines self destructing when the starter was pressed with an engine full of fuel!

Greetings hansie

so then with your meter on yellow and black and the throttle fully closed, you should see between 689 and 795 Ohms reading, if not...adjust the angle of the TPS to achieve this Thats how I understood the process TC

not sure about all the voltage readings...where did that come from? ...I didnt any of that in the service manual checks However now you have confirmed 5300 Ohms maximum resistance... From manual If the maximum resistance = 5.3 kW, then the throttle position sensor’s maximum resistance when the throttle is fully closed should be: 5.3 kW (0.13 0.15) = 689 to 795 W Lift the carburetor assembly slightly out of the intake manifolds. Loosen the throttle position sensor screws 4 . Connect the pocket tester (W 100) to the throttle position sensor. Positive tester probe _ yellow terminal 3 Negative tester probe _ black terminal 2 e. Adjust the throttle position sensor angle so that the measured resistance is within the specified range. Throttle position sensor resistance 689 795 W (yellow – black terminal) After adjusting the throttle position sensor angle, tighten the throttle position sensor screws.

I have to say having read this thread and the manual...I'm having difficulty understanding anything about your TPS findings blue and black = 5300 Ohms...is that what you said TC in post #8 , because next minute I see you referring to 5.3 volts in post #31

The right hand side crank seal needs replacing hansie that is why there is fuel in the oil. What year and model is the bike? (update your profile)

yeah i'm familiar, theres some really great info there

nice one carl

Greetings matt and I always thought the wr's were tough bikes but alas you have proved otherwise!

Greetings bennyboy and yeah I have to agree there they look great...hard to believe they're tiddlers eh?

since the rear cylinder seems to be the OK one, how about running the bike on the rear and checking for spark at the front? yeah thats a great how to from de51gnz

dunno but at least you have a point of reference now eh? I am cautious about suggesting you shell out on another CDI for obvious reasons! have you tried new plugs yet? have you looked for any tests for the ignition coil in the manual? its a single carb isnt it so it's beginning to look like it might not be carb / fuel related what do you mean the top pipe and the lower pipe?? I assume you would touch both pipes at the headers near to the cylinder heads!

yes it does but dont forget you may only be touching decorative covers on this type of bike you deed to be touching the actual exaust...it may burn...normally you would dab it with a wet rag and it would hiss

are both exhausts getting hot...yeah its a dumb question but hey!

theres a place in Derbyshire that repro decals though for the life of me I cant remember the name

Try pulling the choke on as it begins to struggle to eliminate fuel starvation Adam

yeah perhaps the petcock has debris in it, it may also have a filter screen that is blocked up! i would carefully strip it and examine / clean it

yes I understand the needles will wear them oval in time and thus cause enriched fuel supply with low revs part throttle opening, not talking from experience though...

could it be worn emulsion tubes in the carbs?

very nice Sacha Foamy If its not too late i'll have 'Airhead' on the back of mine

Greetings Steve and ...nice bike fella

well at least its a lot better than 200 jeannette, sorry it all anded this way it's a shame you couldnt get it fixed up again. If you get another Yamaha pop back and show us eh

looks in great shape for the chassis, so did you rattle can it?

a fabric strap probably wont be man enough, I dont know the setting for yours though it will be in the workshop manual, as a guide though my DT175 is 40 lb/ft

Greetings ben and , great little bikes the DTR's are...will look in on your project thread