Airhead

You sure there isnt a big red switch on the RH control?

Greetings Rik, aha a man of taste and a nose for oil burners

Click the 'Forums' tab at the top of the screen, Then in the 'Projects' forum start your own project topic...maybe post a pic early on we like to see them rough from the beginning

Greetings koop, yeah start a project thread up and keep this one an intro

Thats sounds right to me, it was turning the key off that caused it

how can it, The RXS isnt a PV motor is it?

is my last post invisible?

DT175E was 1978 and virtually the same bike as NEO's...a monoshock?

while were on the subject there is another method Remove the piston from the rod and offer the top of the piston and rings into the barrel leaving the pin hole exposed. Place the pin in the deep freezer for 1/2 hour Heat the barrel / piston up in the oven to about 60 degrees C Then position the piston to align with the small end of the rod and bearing Finally slide the cold pin with some oil on it into position and fit the clip Rags still applies in case you drop the clip

Sam your idea about the ply is a tried and tested method. all I will add is...pack the crankcase with rags, in the unlikely event you break a ring It'll keep it out of harms way. It's quite an easy job on a single cylinder bike though I dont think you'll have any bother with it

Greetings pwgun

keep it up it'll all come together with skill and 'imagination'

Greetings roadrunner...not been a bad day eh?

Have to ask the obvious first Have you knocked the killswitch ?

Neutral switch isnt connected to the cdi...clearly the clutch and stand switch are working so can it be then that although the neutral light works the connection to the cdi is broken?

For me it would be the 650 fluke, enjoy your test rides Greetings and

Went to see Graham Gouldman (10cc) kick off their latest tour this year in the village of Holmfirth...what a talent that guy is

It sounds to me like you need a new ignition switch, chech the switched live you connected the grips to, if it's 12v all the time the key switch isnt breaking the cct

in a word ...no dt The + feed to the brake lamp is never grounded or you'd blow the fuse. Switched live always have a 'load' between them and ground...often lamp bulbs

I see it as 1980 YZ80G

Confirm It's a bullet connector and I'll make one for you FOC (provided I can find my bullet connectors at work)

OK then, use the brake light switch feed to operate a relay and feed from the battery + (via fuse) to the relay contact Terminal 85 connect to brake light feed Terminal 86 to chassis Terminal 30 + feed (via fuse) from battery Terminal 87 + feed out to grips control Grips control - (Negative) to chassis I would start by investigating what type of plugs feed your brake switch, if it's a bullet youll need to make up of of those splitters I posted earlier unless you're gonna rough arse it with a scotch block...Yuk

Greetings Martineer Intriguing, what can it be that has replaced the affections of mrs martineer?

Fingers crossed for you GarnZ

Connecting to the battery direct is fine untill a: You forget to switch them off at your destination b: Some meddling tw4t thinks it's funny to switch them on in your absence If these are never going to happen...go for it, dont forget to fit a 5A inline fuse If you want to go down the switched live route how about making one of these and fitting it into the rear brake light switch feed