Airhead

you could try sucking on the vacuum line a few times to test the action of the flow / no flow

Yep youre right Dave, if the vacuum tap is working this cannot happen! so where is the leak coming from then?

is it a YL2? https://www.google.c...02&q=yamaha yl2 For pictures see FAQ's in the 'New Members' section

Looking forward to this one NEV, Yeah liking the seat...very nice

is it a model code 444? Heres a wiring diagram, not up to much but it's the only one I could find http://www.slimduck....t125_wiring.htm

if it's fine then check the head gasket some tell-tale signd for the head gasket are water dripping from the frame (well it was on the DTR), and possibly bubbling in the expansion bottle in a bad case

its usually the head gasket gone but can also be the water pump seal, in that case check your gearbox oil isnt a milky emulsion of oil and water

It's 1978 that was my point I know its not elec start It's virtually the same bike as mine and NEO's

Haha thats mad

Fair enough, you need to find out the specific requirement for your bike then

Dont use your fingers lol, use a wet rag to test the headers are hot

Err if you read the post 6 you will see I am talking about the positive feed to the brake switch...hope I havent confused dewang though he never did PM me an address to send the stuff to! and no I'm not wrong the positive feed to the brake lamp / switch or where ever is never grounded . What IS grounded is the other side of the bulb filament that's permanently grounded...get a meter on yours if ya wanna check as for connecting to the tail light feed and only having warm hands when the lights are on...fair enough if you have a bike with permanant lights on, but the feed to the brake switch is there all the time so thats the usual place to go for

OIl level is always checked with the wheels on the ground and the bike upright as far as I know

Give it a spray of WD40 in there occasionally egghead, It will prevent corrosion from the water ingress

Thats really nice alfresco Will she run without a battery then? But with electric starter??

The steering lock should be the same as the ignition lock if nothing has been changed http://www.pgmyamaha...-23484-01_.html http://www.pgmyamaha...0269-04003.html Check suitability but according to part# these are suitable for DT175MX do I take it you have'nt got parts manuals? PM sent

I really struggle with driving on unlit roads and wherever possible I either wont do it or try to time my journey wisely. Lights are very bright these days and to make it worse the bloody things are almost always adjustable electrically...who do you think gives consideration to others when fiddling with this adjuster.....NOT MANY!!!

yes the yellow tinted ones are for night driving,

Greetings alfresco and your english is just fine

koop for pictures see FAQ's subforum to 'New Members' forum

Greetings and 'Bythesea' 'New members' is really for intros and thanks for using it Can I suggest you start a thread in 'Classics' TIA

PM me your address dewang

yes if the inlet isnt closing because of poor adjustment or a broken spring etc etc...The air/fuel will be pushed back into the airbox on the piston up stroke

no mate, cant be done

Just had a look in the owners manual and I see you are correct, thats the first (modern) bike I've seen without a kill switch! If you havent got this manual It's fee to download here http://www.ymenvom.nl/new/manuals/U3D9E0.PDF