Airhead

this winters rolling restoration Did this over the last few weeks, it wasnt tatty or owt but ya know how you just feel you have to do stuff in winter! ::)Decided to smarten up the arse end of the DT It started with yet another take a chance buy of yet another swing arm...only difference is that when this one arrived I knew that finally...I have bought a good un with no butchery and no pitting...still in the original manufacturers paint coat after 33 years...awesome, Thanks DK ;D after a good pressure washing with hot water and a coat of zinc primer and gloss black...rattle cans of course 8-) knowing this was a next move in the rolling resto...in Oct 2011 I bought from France ebay a rear inner and black outer mudguard, I bought it because the inner guard looked promising and you just dont see them like that anymore, anyway for a grand total of 30 Euros it arrived and I cleaned up the outer guard and promtly ebayed it, crikey it fetched £65 'go figure' as the Amercans would say! so heres the inner after a good clean up with power washer and scotchbrite...gold dust and off to the electroplaters for a freshen up Like I say you just dont see em like this, so this is why this fella is asking £175 for one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dt175mx-dt-175mx-dt175-rear-mudguard-/221170983581?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item337ed1629d while I'm at it I fitted a grease nipple to the swing arm where it pivots and drilled through the pivot bush...I reason that the grease will serve the purpose of not just lubricating the bearings but will also stop the mounting bolt seizure issues too and lastly the chain tensioner bolt gets the same treatment + re-zinc... these things are continually in motion and wear away the bore of the tensioner and the bolt Couldnt doo all this without a quick tart up of the old 'De Carbon' gas shock could I...more aerosol therapy I've got a NOS chainguard and pillion rests too to go on when I get around to it 8-) ;D

thats a great idea drewpy...looks just the ticket mate, nice for showing like Them symbols say kiss my arse

has to be WOT ken, full revs can be got to at part hrottle openings too....sheffy of course you dont have to be doing this at stupid speeds, 3rd or 4th gear is fine and a long uphill road to give some load

Greetings and you should keep a watch of ebay and craigslist then eh?

This term 'bogging down' lots of people use that expression these days to describe an overly rich scenario...when the mixture is over rich or 'bogging down' back in the day we used to describe this as 'Four Stroking' ie...it feels like it is firing every other beat of the engine not every beat as it should. You need to give it wide open throttle or 'WOT' to determine this, get it right at WOT and then at part throttle 1/2 - 3/4 do the same thing by adjusting the carb needle posn, up to richen and down to lean...always go leaner in the jet and needle posn with a big serving of CAUTION, only do it if you experience 'bogging down'. plug colouring should also be part of the testing as you are no doubt aware Another thing...i think some of the earlier bikes didnt have a 240 jet but had a 210? so it would be a bit silly not to know whats in there and go buying jets

??? where exactly did I say that you shouldnt re-jet I think you'll find I said re-jet 1 size but dont expect it to give you back 10mph as for 'performace exhaust'...well it sounds good but 'after market' exhaust would be more accurate, the original exhaust isnt called a 'performane' one is it and it does quite a good job eh at 80mph

Paul Dawkins is the guy you need, I'll let him know armfaw

Maybe the gullies are there for the reasons you said earlier Jason, but are not playing a part when the motor is running...what i'm trying to suggest here is that when the engine is stopped, the oil that is all over the sides of the transfer ports will run back down to the bearings, and the engine running condition will be as preload said..ie some of the mix is pushed through the bearing into the transfer port...never really gave it a thought myself but I can appreciate that it's a great system and even greater for it's simplicity

it wont need more than a 250 if indeed it needs that but by all means try a 250 However at this stage I doubt it will give you much of a performance difference, it could be that the new pipe simply isnt as good as the stock one

i can

Pretty sure the inner cable should just pull out after you have unscrewed the outer knurled cable connection Gaston...Thats usually the way fella

Oh OK they must have needed another chassis connection for something, seem silly when they could have used the ignition coil mounting bolt without chopping into anything!

I'm intriggued by the 8 wire CDI though...you counted wrong? They are 7 wires mk1 and 6 wires mk2

Greetings Steve fellow 79 DTMX owner one of the first things I learned way way back was how riding in bad weather can conk out these things..I suggest you take of the flywheel, mark the stator position and take of the stator...shove it in the oven for a few hours on low, you need to gett it running again obviously before trying to address wher the clear white fluid come came from You'll need to use your original CDI too... Which region of Mcr are you in then?

Greetings Richard, feel free to start a project thread

one post wonder!

Greetings Tony, nice to see you bringing them up right

greetings Rob

its a mikuni large hexagon type putting the choke on will richen the mixture of course,... so if it pulled better even briefly it would back up your suspicions of running lean

i give up

??? so did you try the old plug then

did you come across that in pos #1 ?

Well if thats the case prove it by briefly switching on the choke

before you start thinking £££'s for a CDI try a new spark plug, I know you said you recently fitted one but try another first as they are so cheap, even try the old one, the one before the recently fitted new one