Airhead

I think so too but I dont have any rusty stuff like you

there was a tutorial recently in practical sportsbike magazine Steve

Clinical depression averted, you're welcome Steve. Yeah another one for the squires weekend

yes of corse they could, you should do a compression test to verify what you have said

I've never done it myself and never heard of it used for a tank but If it were me I'd be trying the electrolysis method to remove the rust

Better tp paddle the bike forwards with your feet and then select 1st gear while it's in motion, throttle at idle 1200rpm of course, then pull the clutch and it will free itself...no crashing clunks that way

take the sparkplug out and leave it out for 24 hours, try again after you have checked theres a spark

AT2 0103101 0110000 DT125 1974 AT2 0110101 0200000 DT125 1975

Difficult question Dan, I dont know the answer to that one, are you aware of the athena 170cc kit that is available?

Greetings Dan

you ran low on petrol Joe?

I've often wondered what your bike looked like now, shes a beaut well done, another brought back from the brink. The other two for $500 well the best one looks a heck of a lot better than the one you started with dont ya think?

ahh wait till you get some more replies connor I'm no expert with YBR's by any means, hopefully I'm way off the mark and you should check the breather tube wherever it is fella

seems to me that perhaps the compressed gasses are blowing by the piston rings...maybe?

Greetings Gadget

mine was the same as yours ken and it wasnt embarrassed when out with the aircooled rd gang at the rallies... as for the athena, is it worth the extra cost of the insurance first off?

Best wishes for the new year everyone

you should check the main jet isnt blocked

Nope thats wrong, you can take em off if you wish, mine hasnt had any for 30 years without any issue at all from MOT, Police anything...It's not always covenient though I'm not suggesting it's the 'In thing to do'

Yeah it was trying (as in very trying)!!! Steve, from looking at a pic on my computer I can say without doubt that I had it the other way round on mine and did some filing of the stator plate to clear the soldered terminal...I have now done this to yours so were good to go again...The genuine yam ones are expensive..cmsnl are asking 165 euros for one but there are several in the states for around £60...so for now we'll stick with this one me thinks gimme a ring tomorrow sometime

yep thats it, you may find some connections near the switch though...if it does turn out to be faulty fit a new switch for safetys sake

this winters rolling restoration Did this over the last few weeks, it wasnt tatty or owt but ya know how you just feel you have to do stuff in winter! ::)Decided to smarten up the arse end of the DT It started with yet another take a chance buy of yet another swing arm...only difference is that when this one arrived I knew that finally...I have bought a good un with no butchery and no pitting...still in the original manufacturers paint coat after 33 years...awesome, Thanks DK ;D after a good pressure washing with hot water and a coat of zinc primer and gloss black...rattle cans of course 8-) knowing this was a next move in the rolling resto...in Oct 2011 I bought from France ebay a rear inner and black outer mudguard, I bought it because the inner guard looked promising and you just dont see them like that anymore, anyway for a grand total of 30 Euros it arrived and I cleaned up the outer guard and promtly ebayed it, crikey it fetched £65 'go figure' as the Amercans would say! so heres the inner after a good clean up with power washer and scotchbrite...gold dust and off to the electroplaters for a freshen up Like I say you just dont see em like this, so this is why this fella is asking £175 for one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dt175mx-dt-175mx-dt175-rear-mudguard-/221170983581?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item337ed1629d while I'm at it I fitted a grease nipple to the swing arm where it pivots and drilled through the pivot bush...I reason that the grease will serve the purpose of not just lubricating the bearings but will also stop the mounting bolt seizure issues too and lastly the chain tensioner bolt gets the same treatment + re-zinc... these things are continually in motion and wear away the bore of the tensioner and the bolt Couldnt doo all this without a quick tart up of the old 'De Carbon' gas shock could I...more aerosol therapy I've got a NOS chainguard and pillion rests too to go on when I get around to it 8-) ;D

thats a great idea drewpy...looks just the ticket mate, nice for showing like Them symbols say kiss my arse

has to be WOT ken, full revs can be got to at part hrottle openings too....sheffy of course you dont have to be doing this at stupid speeds, 3rd or 4th gear is fine and a long uphill road to give some load

Greetings and you should keep a watch of ebay and craigslist then eh?