Airhead

Heres your stator Steve Pic showing the orientation of the Electrex source coil Pic showing the filed clearance for the live connection

yes you need a well fitting pipe thats VERY important, you dont want the fluid spilled on the caliper and pads!!! Try the chemists for tube, or car accessory shop

:lol: :lol: :lol:

nice one davie, the site is being rather troublesome eh? got there in the end

get some help a mate doing the nipple and tube in a jar bit pull the lever gently until thes resistance and keep gentle pressure on mate undoes the nipple, the lever pulls to the handlebar...keep it there mate tightens the nipple let the lever out fully REPEAT until no bubbles in tube...keep level topped up

in photobucket select the picture you want to post, click next to the bottom field, the one that begins and ends with IMG...../IMG you will see it briefly say copied Paste into your post using the 'More Reply Options' for now

right, I used photobucket there and got the usual image extension failure message the first time. so then I hit the 'More Reply Options' button, and went that route and it worked...try that way for now

it no doubt needs bleeding properly

Greetinga davie and yeah were having all sorts of issues posting from photobucket and the 'big cheese' is missing!

look out for condensation with you starting it and not allowing the engine to get hot...try spraying the stator with some WD40 it wont do any harm

check the loom isnt chaffed where it goes around the headstock

Put 'The Donkey' up again foamy

some good multimeters will measure capacitance by the way...mine will

Way I see it is this, if youve done a search and not found a healthy following in Australia then I'ts hardly worth bothering with...break it and sell as parts?

Confused why you drilled the airbox but didnt try washing the filter first?

so tell us how you checked the compression, what reading did you get?

Listen joe, I have no idea fella but dont rush into it just yet. Leaving the plug out overnight and then try again tomorrow, preferably with another plug...have you checked it's sparking?

yeah you should push gently and you'll feel compression, continue to push gently through the lions share of that compression until you're almost TDC, then give it all youve got and the flywheel will have a bit of momentum as it hits the next compression stroke and so it will help you, I note that you are at some disadvantage though with the left leg fix you're in

yeah thats nice and the can would benefit from a little stubbying IMO

How about the BMF rally then, lots to see n do there

I wouldnt use that method for 1 the anode isnt anything like big enough, and if it touches the tank it will short out the charger...better in a plastic bath with a seperate steel plate anode IMO

Ahhgh ouch oops, yeah but isnt there some timing marks on the rotor and crankcase, these are usually fairly accurate, try a cigarette paper pullout as these line up? I assume the RT3 has a magneto ignition being a dirt bike and all that? Whats your kicking technique then Richard?

Yeah but It's invasive it removes both good and bad, electrolysis only removes bad but of course may leave a poor finish...wont matter in a tank though...hey you'll need a pretty big plastic container to submerge the tank in

yeah It's definitely one of his better posts