Airhead

yes it sounds like the starter solenoid must be jammed...was it turning the engine then? I'd take a look to see if you can free it off somehow if you do disconnect any wires from the SS don't forget to have your battery disconnected so they cant short cct to the frame etc

sounds like a great day out drewpy

Nahh he just typed inside of the quoted part

Oddly enough they did a DT125 tener john, bit of a fairing and big tank iirc

It's a post from 2011 !,

Good, thanks Kirri Pete and Slice

are battery connections loose?

Loose rust and debris in the filter

I know your tank is steel, I was just pointing out this filter because the carbs are similar if not the same...there may still be crud and rust on yours?

perhaps there is water in the carb bowl...is there a drain screw you can run some fuel out ...put petrol tap ono prime (PRI) if it has that position

Nice work

Greetings Jayne, yeah I'll second that Roll on Spring and ditch the SAD

I bet there is a little gauze filter element inside the carb, there is on my TT600 which has a similar carb dual carb fitted? Its on the float valve seat, heres how I found mine with collection of fibres covering it, my bike has a fibre petrol tank not a steel one

check your reed valve, the petals may have become curved and allowing blow-back

horn, indicators, tail light / brake light, dashboard lights....these all work from the battery. The engine does not need the battery as it has a magneto ignition

and the gearing?...I edited my reply, that might also be a problem, certainly one to consider

isn't there a glaring flaw in your plan to use both cogs? the driven cog is supposed th be on the RH side of the bike..., it screws to the hub in a clockwise direction and so applying a drive tends to keep it screwed to the hub, so then, if you also apply a drive to the LH sprocket from the engine...it unscrews the sprocket from the hub!...fuck!! and also, even if this wasn't the case at all...the puny threads on the aluminium wheel hub are strong enough to stand up to the rigors of human power...possibly not the more powerful engine! and also, motorcycle engine tend to have rear sprockets many times larger than drive sprockets, yet the available sprocket on this flip flop hub will be similar in size to the drive....you'll need to be doing 30mph at idle lolzzz

is there a Red wire in your harness at the Stator location?

X variant is supermoto John

Greetings Steve, like your style

you must bear in mind that this was written for the UK market bikes DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Finally, if you are working with a box full of mixed parts! Mk1 1 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T250, it has two slots in the face of the flywheel Mk2 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T251, it has four slots in the face of the flywheel

not another unfinished project in the making!

Greetings Vern, that bike is well covered here as no doubt google told you lol

78...It's a monoshock is it? ...CDI

Have you tried a new sparkplug? is the HT lead connection to the plug cap secure?