Airhead

Wow...I'd frame it

yes its a 1 piece assembly I think

is there an oil drain screw at the bottom of the fork?

happy birthday mate

open side faces the crankshaft flywheel, dunno what the castellations are for unless they are to aid removal by pulling on them?

once you remove the little wire clip you should be able to pull out the small worm speedo drive, when thats out you can pull out the bigger worm with the drive arms on it...looks like they need hammering flat again?

Greetings suz, nice intro there Greetings and

Greetings Matt, now dont be dissing your new ride thats asking for trouble!

rub down any high spots, fill any low spots and rub down again...job done for nothing

I didnt say I thought that was the problem, I just answered a question you asked! But while youre in there check out the piston / bore wear, you'll find info in the service manual

here is a sketch of a similar carb showing the pilot cct. You can see how air and fuel are sucked through the passageways and mixed together, the air screw regulates the ratio of air/fuel. look for these passageways on your carb and spray carb cleaner (using a straw) throu them and witness they are clear....dont forget the pilot jet itself. This pic shows the bypass hole as it enters the venturi...the pilot hole will be under the throttle valve I think Here is where the air enters, yours may be similar, the air flow is regulated by the air mixture screw HTH

1: Is it normal to have only one piston ring? 2: Can having too much clearance between piston and bore create a knocking/rattling sound? 3: I don't really know what I'm doing so any help would be greatly appreciated. 1: NO 2: YES, it's called piston slap...google it 3: Get yourself a service manual it will tell you how to check the cylinder bore and piston wear under all that carbon on the piston crown there may be a number engraved into the piston, this may indicate the current rebore size so you can buy a set of piston rings to suit...unless of course it is also badly worn and you opt for a rebore

seems like you have two issues 1: Sort the float height setting or the condition of the float needle valve seat, this is whats causing the overfilling 2: fuel starvation at low revs...this is why it's better with choke you say you cleaned and blew out the carb passsageways and jets...regarding the pilot circuit did you actually witness that the air passageway to the mixing chamber and the bypass and pilot hole from the mixing chamber to the inlet venturi are actually un-blocked? did you see the carb cleaner spraying out these passageways...reason I ask is that theres no guarantees that boiling the carb in water will clear these ways if they are blocked! ultrasonic cleaning is a better method...need some pics?

Greetings beast Good choice of bike, look after it and it'll hold its value nicely

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if thats your concern, get it readable for the MOT and after that cut a piece of tin can and gaffer tape it over the number so no more wear can occur

250 ml is quite a modern size innit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tyre-Wall-Paint-White-250ml-Whitewall-Rat-Rod-Hot-Rod-Non-Cracking-Flexible-/321170549421?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac741aaad#ht_346wt_721

no you cant re-stamp it or stick any labels on, never allow it to be blasted again. Use paintstripper to reveal the number with minimum further removal of metal and just lightly spray over the area...hopefully this will reveal the number

always try to fix things properly without further damaging what you have already Oliver, if you use ptfe tape...remember to wind it onto the thread in the correct direction

you shouldnt need to tighten it to that extreme...just fit a small fibre washer under the head of the screw or wind a bit of ptfe tape around the threads

dont bodge it, fix it properly!

i dont see why fuel pissing out of the bowl drain is anything at all to do with the needle valve, float height, floats punctured...etc Its a drain screw problem

is the number feint because of layers of paint or what?

is there a gasket missing from the bowl drain screw?

something wrong with BOTH rectifiers...or the plug on your loom?