Airhead

Vesrah is quite a good make I think but I cant guarantee that the head gasket is copper because I only but Noboru ones...by the way NOS isnt a make it stands for New Old Stock. ask the seller to break out the magnet to test the head gasket...lots are copper plated steel just to con you! The beauty of real copper ones is they can be re-used...just anneal them You should try torqueing down your first though because if one of them wont torque up properly it's probably pulling the thread out of the cylinder and would require a helicoil / recoil fitted, that may be why you have a leak . 15 - 18 lb/ft is the setting

yeah the exhuast gasket is there it's on the bottom right of the pack. That looks like a poor aftermarket set...I'd bet money the head gasket in there is a steel one! I always look for old stock 'Noboru' ones myself...top quality with copper head gaskets just like the OEM ones

perhaps it may not be the carb you've done so much cleaning to it ? then you'll have wasted money! tell us about the fuel feed to the carb...is it pumped or gravity did you disconnect it and witness a good flowrate of fuel (taking obvious care here) i'm thinking a bike that sat 12 years may well have blocked fuel filter screens? Common places for filter screens are Inside the fuel tank where the petrol tap feed tube enters the tank in a bowl on the petrol tap inlet to fuel pump? Hey I found this on my TTR600 actually inside the carburettor on the inlet to the float valve seat so a strong fuel flow wouldnt have shown this one up!

Fingers crossed it will pan out well mate, Ive had dogs most of my adult life and my last one died in my arms last year in the spring...he'd had a good innings though but yeah its heartbreaking when it happens

have you examined the rubber boots between the carb and the cylinders and carb to airbox...particularly looking for perishing / splitting ?

Next time it is warmed up, take out the air filter and try it again...then report back

Hey happy 21st anzi

Hey beaky, it's easy to change gears with the engine not running, all you have to do is rock the bike back and forth as you do so

check the cable, disconnect it at the rev counter and start the engine...is it spinning? if not...withdraw it and see if it's broken

Theres no reason to 'up' any of the jets, it's more likely crud in one of the little passageways...buy an aerosol carb cleaner spray and with the straw...spray through these passageways

I had a 2003 model it was a great bike, but yeah the dtre is a little more modern styled, I'd buy whatever you come across thats good and in your budget

I have heard of people simmering them in a saucepan of water with lemon juice, I have no experience of this though, if you go down this route you should blow it all out with compressed air afterwards...and remove all rubber components first....Dont put the slide and diaphragm in there it wont need cleaning and you cant remove the diaphragm Either that or take it for ultrasonic cleaning somewhere

why whats wrong with the rim? you need a new sprocket cassette fiting on the wheel, take it to a bike shop

get your carb ultrasonic cleaned

I dont care if it was, you cant put a new chain on worn sprockets!

FFS a new chain!!! why didnt you say until now??? see what I said first time...I take it back about the adjustment

I doubt it's chain and sprocket wear, try adjusting the cable you'll see an adjuster where the outer cable sheath meets the derailleur, try turning it anti clockwise 1/2 turn at a time (unscrewing) to take up and stretch that has occurred in the cable over time

either worn chain and sprockets a new chain on worn sprockets an old chain on new sprockets derailleur cable adjustment out (slips on a selection of gears) derailleur stop adjustment out (slips on top or bottom gear only)

yeah it does sound like a carb or fuel supply problem

what about the ignition HT coil?

It'll be a right bastard to kick over welshy, but you'll learn a knack for it in due course

have you checked the resistance values of the two magneto coils, I assume the figures will be in the Haynes manual?

and being a small trailbike it is extremely stealable so watch where you park it and never take your eyes of it for long!

you should still bleed the pump though or you'll have air in it and it may deliver to little oil if you dont do that. and theres a much better way than kicking it, hold the throttle fully open and then push and pull the pump piston many times over, this will simulate the engine running at full belt and more besides or at least hold the throttle fully open (with the sparkplug out) and then do the kicking

that bleed screw (it's not a drain screw) should remove easily enough if you get some mole grips on the side of the screw...not too tight mind...or they will just slip off and bugger up the sides of the screw.