Airhead

maybe I misunderstood what you said in your opening post Tom, i thought it wouldnt start well and I naturally assumed you were using the choke. so it starts without choke but not with it Try taking out the air filter foam but replace the cover

Ha...thats a good point! At least i have the temperature indicator, that'll help

wow dont they just tighten until they stop Alex...what's the 4 turns malarky?

Just pulled it apart. 2 broken rings! It's been making a right racket ever since I put my spare barrel on. I'm surprised it lasted this long...it was worn out and ported, last oversize chinese piston no doubt All is not lost though. Jason kindly sent me another barrel up and it's at the re-borers from last friday...then it'll have to go for aqua blasting because it's cosmetically grotty. Hopefully I'll be back on the road soon and it looks like I might be running in if I get it sorted for the rally

The DT is dead!

I'm not thinking it's anything else right now Tom, check that little hole is clear check the gasket check the brass tube is intact

no its not, as it bears no resemblance to any sort of an intro i'll move it

Welcome in Tom There's a few of us in here that love the old MX's and yeah there's plenty other oldies here too

Greetings Alex Hopefully she'll be up and running soon enough, it's not good when yer bike isnt rideable

i'd say its a carbrettor choke not working issue Two important points here 1: The bowl gasket needs to be in good unbroken condition around the fuel lift tube, see 'B' 2: there is a small hole right at the bottom of the fuel lift chamber so that fuel can pass into there from the bowl, see 'A' Hey we do appreciate an intro in 'New Members' section

I dont know, never seen one before

yeah i'm not sure you read and understood what I said last...the clutch springs do the lions share of the work, if theres no pressure at the handlebar lever, and there was before you stiripped down the clutch...then perhaps there is something wrong with how you re-assembled it? This little spring just 'parks' the operating arm!

It all looks assembled correctly to me Alex, however I suspect the spring has been stressed and is now out of kilter, this spring only plays a minor roll though, in reality the operating arm would be forced back into it's resting position as the clutch plate springs extend and engage the clutch. The spring you are concentrating on here will force the arm even further back to it's stop and this is the free play you would have at the handlebar lever (10mm ish) There was never any way you'd have to have wound that spring a full 360 degrees and I expect your attemps at doing just that has damaged it!

right alex, I see you have a photobucket account well you are posting the wrong links, its a right pain in the bum to be constantly diverted away from a thread to look at a picture! copy the IMG line from the photobucket and paste it here, that would be far better

Hell thats nice

new from the pack can be fitted straight on there with a thin layer of grease. Only a used one would need to be annealed. Did you test it with a magnet? do this and if it's copper you could anneal it and use it again...this goes for the original one as well

try one tooth less on the front sprocket

yeah you could use the old one this way, I do myself

Ahh just stuff some rags around the mouth of the crankcase and throw a sheet / tarpaulin over the bike, she'll be just fine i'm sure under the carport

Geetings seabass and

You havent described the poor running you are experiencing yet so how can we try make judgements on that? De-carbonise the piston crown, cylinder head and exhaust port by all means, just gently scrape off the carbon. It's pretty likely the rings will be worn though and jammed in the piston grooves...you've only just started scraping the surface with this project!

Greetings siuza as said...great choice

That was a very good buy mate back

yeah thats it then By the way, it's best to have the oil level sender in working order isnt it...have you?

With the head nuts, personally I torque them all to12lb/ft first, then up the setting to 18lb/ft, yes do opposites rather than a star pattern "Once I have my exhaust off, if I cannot complete the head job in one day, do I need to block off the exposed exhaust port and what is the best way to do that?" Not sure what you mean here, you havent said what you are doing, but using the kicker you can park the piston at TDC to keep mice and spiders from seeking a new home in your motor