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Airhead
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Everything posted by Airhead
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all I can think of is ebay and craigs list, but like I said, you may have to wait a while. If you do run across one be sure to ask if they have the tank/cap and anything else you need
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4 stroke oil is absolutely no problem in a 2 stroke gearbox
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the only 2 stroke oil you need is for pre-mixing, in the the tranny you can use absolutely any motorcycle oil
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yes get on with it man, dont put car oil in the tranny though...bike oil
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Yes that could be a problem but it's a bit weird how it suddenly happened, thats not wear related Check the compression then
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well yes it is, but if there are indents on the races then It's time for something new
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Does the fuel tap bowl unscrew on this bike, might be worth checking for water in there. Caution though, the hexagons are easily rounded off so i'd recommend using a 6 sided socket if it shows any resistance to being unscrewed
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Well I wouldnt go more that 1 size bigger for the DEP pipe and the reeds wont make a jot of difference, but this doent address how something suddeny happened and it ran crap ever since, thats why I suggested the HT lead connection. Have you explained this sudden breakdown? was everything hunky dory befor that event?
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1: If your bike should have a #210 jet in the carb, then that's what you should fit. 2: What is the connection of the HT lead and spark plug cap like...loose? If it is then unscrew the cap and chop off 12mm from the end of the lead and re-fit the cap.
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Greetings JR, wow...a family oil company
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mines a DT175MX (DT175F) buddy, Its a trail bike and spares are easy to get compared to what you'll find, thats the dowwnside of having a competition bike !
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What's the VIN# I'll see if I can identify it.
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Looks a bit rough to me!
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That looks more like a proper enduro bike...an IT175, your luck's in I'd mix it at 40:1 myself but lets see what others say.
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does this bike have a flat slide carb or the older version with the round slide?
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one at a time
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yes I get it now but I've never heard so much tosh, needle pointing at the sky indeed so thats bottom notch then, the richest setting
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Explain this question
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Tell us about the powervalve again, what shape is it on the end where the pulley fits to it...diamond or sort of oval ? when the 'U' cutout in the pulley aligns with the 4mm blind hole behind it...how does the pv sit in the top of the exhaust port at this time? Reason I'm asking is, unless it is perfectly flush with the top of the port you will get the syptoms you describe
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it needs to be higher than the engine, sounds a bad idea to me, I reckon you'd have a right job selling it on...dunno what the insurance company might think also. Get it sold and buy a DT
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Great stuff John, the roads have been salted for the last week here though
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Hey Pat, perhaps a little intro wouldnt have taken much longer that this response?
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Charging, the manual says... Lights off... at 3000rpm 1.3 + - 0.5 amps at 8000 rpm 1.6 + - 0.5 amps Lights on at 3000 rpm 0.4 + - 0.3 amps at 8000 rpm 1.8 + - 0.5 amps Charge coil resistance 0.30 Ohm + - 10% Carbs overflowing is quite a common problem, it may be a worn float needle, examine it for a wear ring around the taper of the valve, float height is 21mm from the gasket flange (below the gasket)
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bloke told you wrong, I run a B9ES which is a colder plug than the standard B8ES http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp
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Hi Phil long time no see The correct plug is B8ES, cant understand why you are holing pistons so much, your jetting is way over size...160 would be more like it for a mk 2 model or 130 for a mk1 I'd check your ignition timing if I were you
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