mickt26

How fresh is the top end? Low compression can lead to hard starting woes so it might be worth trying some new rings if you're unsure of when it was last done. Knackered/chipped reeds can bugger the idle up. My first TZR250 had really worn bores and was a b*tch to start from cold. After getting it rebored with fresh pistons and rings it started first or second prod. Just a couple of things to investigate when you have the time/money. Again, these aren't 2 stroke 'unreliability' issues, just a function of the bike's age and possible lack of preventative maintainence by previous owners. Mick.

It could be a 'this way up' indicator. Have you tried it the other way?

This is the first year I've been able to ride all year round, and it won't be the last. I can't drive so me bike is me only transport. I've got a '01 DT125R for commuting/mule/wobbling around off-road and a '97 SZR660 that's in bits being, ahem, cleaned*. So, five (sometimes 6) days a week to work and back, and the odd weekend blast when I'm not busy in the garage. Mick *Changed beyond recognition, just don't tell the missus

Is the filter pointing down, or is the fuel hose too long so the fuel actually has to flow back 'up' the pipe to get to the carb? Mick.

Ah, sounds like the main jet unscrewed itself. Not entirely unheard of. Don't give up on the bike (yet). You've got the brake sorted, and it's running now. Maybe give it a good going over when you've got the time? Mick.

Nah. Those type of reliability 'problems' come from when people think they can make a 2 stroke 'better' by doing stuff like fitting K&N-type filters, and then getting the jetting wrong. It generally ends in (expensive) tears following a seizure. I think what you've got is more likely to be age/weather related than anything else. Mick.

Yeah, I think it'll be Rossi again. Gibernau will choke (again). It'd be really cool if Yamaha put Rossi out on a YZR500 to celebrate their 50th anniversary and he still spanked everybody else though Mick.

I was there last year ('04) and it was f*cking diabolical. The first GP I went to was in 2002 in Catalunya. Donington was a total sh*t tip compared to that. Firstly, the ticket prices for Barcelona were around £30 for the weekend (there were lots of hot Spanish chicas too), and it cost more than that just for race day at Donny. But... I'll be going again this year. Glutton for punishment... Mick.

That link's broken... Mick

Because 2 strokes rock. You should've stuck the engine into a TZR 3XV chassis... Ring ding ding! Mick

Dunno why really. Possibly because my cousin suggested I get a Yam as my first bike, so I got a TZR125. For the money I had, the TZR was the best looking/going bike. Next was a TZR250 2MA, then another one, mostly because I was familiar with the way this motor worked from pottering with my 125. Next up, and currently, are a Yam SZR660 and a DT125R. SZR because it's different from most other bikes and the DT because I always wanted a 'scrambler' when I was a kid. I can now live out those Graham Noyce fantasies... It seems that both Yam and Suzuki make bikes that people want (see YZF750, R6, R1, TZRs, RDs, RGVs, GSX-Rs), whereas Honda (and Kawasaki until recently) have been making bikes they think people should be riding (see linked brakes on Hondas and Kawasaki's bland styling/non-development) Mick.

It's there to lower the airflow through the radiator so the engine runs hotter. Or maybe the Yamaha team actually did run out of fairing fasteners Mick.

You should definitely be able to get a good '90-'92 TZR125 for that, possibly even a '93-on TZR125R. If you do end up getting the earlier 125, try and get a '90-onwards version (rear disc and 17" front- the first bikes had a rear drum and 16" fronts) It's hard knowing which bike you want and being hamstrung by money, that's why my first bike only cost £525. I've always wanted a TZR250 3XV SP but I've never had the cash available when I've seen one. Plus my lass would kill me (literally) if I bought another bike... Mick.

And good luck trying to find parts for an FZR250. Can you say 'rocking horse poo'? TZRs rock. Mick

Possibly. But if the bikes are putting out the same power then surely the R1 will be easier to ride? The 750 would be peakier. OK, so I'm splitting hairs here Still, if I had that kind of money to spend on an R7, I'd buy the R7 and stick an RD500 motor in the chassis- YZR500 rep anyone? Oh yes Mick.

A stock early R1 will spank a stock R7, maybe not around a track but certainly on a dyno. The R7 only made sense when you threw the race kit at it. Mick.

restrictor = £200 (big waste of money, they only lasted to weeks :S ) Gotta keep those insurance bods happy though 125cc bike = £1500 for a half decent one insureance = £1300 tpft Bloody hell! I paid £525 for my TZR125 and around £300 for TPF&T insurance. OK, the bike didn't look too good, but it went like sh*t off a shiny shovel. I'm a believer in 'serving your time' on smaller bikes (not necessarily low power bikes) eg TZR250, RGV250, 400s etc so you learn how to use what you've got, not simply open the throttle to go fast. On a 125, or a 250 for that matter, the skill is in keeping the bike in the power and keeping the corner speed up. I was suggesting that perhaps it's a better idea to start small and build up gradually. The first time I rode a 250 after selling my 125 it was a shock- more than twice the power, and only 20kg heavier- heaven Mick.

Nah, I was just guessing he's like every other young 'un and wants to break the sound barrier on a DT50! funfunfunfunBANG! New piston, please... Deffo buy a 125 and ride that for a couple of years- ring ding ding! mick.

Ah, well, in that case get a TZR125R. It looks the same as the TZR250 v-twin and goes well too. Learn how to go round corners on that before you jump on to something that will get you into trouble, or a hedge. Any fool can go fast in a straight line, it's learning how to put the corners together well that's the most fun. Much fun to be had tazzing about on a 125 for a couple of years. I passed my test on a 125 so had the 33bhp restriction for 2 years, then bought a TZR250. Mick.

It all depends how old he is- doesn't say in his post though! You can ride a 250 at 17 after you pass your test as long as you have it restricted to 33bhp. Mick.

Definitley worth saving up extra and getting a 250. The 3XV is the best looking of the 250 strokers I reckon. Or you could get a TZR125R (UK model) or a TZR125RR (Italian import). Whatever you do, don't get the original TZR125 or the 250 2MA. Nothing wrong with them at all (I've owned both), it's just the later models look so much better. Mick.

I think the point of building an R17 was to build a bike that had the chassis of the R7, and the power of a standard R1. It was cheaper for smaller road racing teams to go down this route rather than fork out for the full R7 race kit from Yamaha, and then try and develop the motor to put out competitive power. You've got to love the looks of the R7 though. Yam should definitely produce an affordable 750 'R' series bike. Mick.

Not that I know of, but there's nothing to stop you using one from another bike- say a TT-R125? Mick.

Well, I've just bought a '01 DT125R to use as a winter hack, but I'd like to get a spare set of 17" wheels for it too. I've also got an SZR660 (same engine as the 660 Tenere, XT660 and the Raptor 660). A thumper is excellent fun- loads of low down punt and the bark from the airbox when you blip the throttle is top, and the lovely 'booooooo' sound on the overrun... Deffo needs an open pipe though to get the full soundtrack (on the Christmas list!) My cousin had a CR500 supermoto, and it was a beast. Was on the cover of Perf Bikes about 10 years ago... Mick.

There are lots of 'urban myths' surrounding the derestriction of the DT, especially the later models. I'm currently wrestling with a '01 DT... There is a reed switch in the back of the speedo at the top (small rectangular white thing) that closes at around 65mph and this allows the CDI to tell the powervalve to close slightly, thus limiting the speed to around 60-65mph. You can simply remove this from the back of the speedo but don't actually cut it out of the loom- just put it in a small plastic bag to keep the water out and keep it well away from the speedo. There are a couple of crescent shaped plates about halfway down the front pipe- obviously they completely bugger the expansion chamber up- they require the pipe to be cut open to remove them, then welded closed again. It's also possible that the actual ignition curve is retarded at higher rpm too, but as I haven't derestricted my front pipe (oo-er!) yet I can't say for sure. Hope this helps, Mick. ps I've also got an SZR660, which is a total hoot