mickt26

You can cobble together a quick fix using a bicycle brake cable, a cable clamp (like you get on MTB V-brakes) and an 8mm socket. Fit the cable in the lever as normal, and thread the other end through the socket (through the square side, so the tapered end will sit in the cable stop on the cases) and use the cable clamp to lock the cable in the clutch actuator arm. It's not pretty, but it works, and can get you back on the road without having to wait for a cable to be delivered Mick

It was all change from 2000-on. My flywheels are different to that one. The rivets are further from the centre and there are 6 holes the same distance from the centre as the rivets. Oh well, looks like I'll have to get one from a Yam dealer £££££££££££££££££££ Cheers for your help, Mick.

Cheers for that Don. It looks the same as the RD350 YPVS puller I've got. What years are your DTs? There's no threaded section on either of my flywheels for a puller to screw into

Don, Sorry to be a pain in the arse- but which one? I did a search and came up with 3 or 4 different ones. The MX puller is the same as a 350 YPVS I think (27 x 1, LH thread) and the generic 'fits most Jap bikes up to 175cc' looks to have a large threaded section which won't work on my flywheel as there's no thread to screw into. What does the 'proper' puller look like? Cheers, Mick.

Right. I've got a spare (lightened) flywheel that I want to stick on my '01 DT and the puller I've got (350 YPVS) doesn't fit . I (stupidly) assumed that it would, being another Yam and all, but no. Does anyone know of a suitable puller (M&P?) that'll work on my DT? Or a cunning trick that'll work (I dunno, something involving levers and pulleys, I'd imagine). Or am I going to have to bite the bullet and stump up for a genuine Yamahahahahaha part? Cheers, Mick.

Hi all, I'm considering putting a YZ250 engine in my SZR660 chassis (660 engine long gone, RD350 YPVS waiting in its place) to go racing in the Bemsee MiniMono class. The only (obvious) hurdle is the cost of a good, late model YZ250 lump. Does anyone have any idea how much a '98-on lump would cost? Cheers, Mick.

Hai, Daniel-san.

Quick/powerful? Well, a stock 350 F2 makes 63bhp (claimed) so they're fast enough. As ashamed as I am to admit it, I've never ridden an RD of any description I hope that'll change though. I just wanted more power and swapping the 660 thumper for a 350 stroker twin seemed the best and most fun way to go. I could've thrown a few hundred quid at the 660 but what's the point? It'd still be a 4 str*ke And everyone knows they suck Go to http://www.yamaha-rd.com if you want some more info on the RD. Interesting? Yes, if you like 80s/90s 2 strokes And they're infinitely modifiyable (is that even a word?) Mick.

Lol! Had 2 of them! They are a hoot too... The TZR125R is the looker though, and the TZR250 3XV (v-twin). They look pretty much the same (same frame-ish)... except you can put TZ250 barrels and pipes on the 250 TZR125RR- Italian import; more power but dodgy looks, same frame as the TZR250 3MA (reverse cylinder) Thing is though, once you get used to the power you'll want more. That's when you buy an RD350 YPVS and transplant the engine... http://uk.geocities.com/mickt26 But try http://www.tzr250.plus.com for more info and pics of TZRs. Mick.

Oh, and you've got to derestrict it 'properly'. None of this fancy-dan powervalve servo nonsense. Just peg the valve open and wait for 7000rpm... Nothing...nothing...nothing... FUUUUUUUUUUN Mick.

Totally different engines. The DT125LC has the same engine as the RD125LC and the TZR125 is the same as the early DT125R. It's a chuffing great little bike though. If you decide to get one, don't try and change the rear wheel for something a little wider and 17" (stock is 2.5" x 17"- skinny) because it's near enough impossible. And don't buy that one. It's an early (2RK model, tubed tyres) one with the 16" front wheel and rear drum brake. Try and get one of the later 3PC2 or 3PC3s ('90-on, I think) with the 17" front wheel and rear disc. For the record, I got an indicated 100mph out of mine :D. Chuffing brilliant. Mick.

What you after? I've got a few stroker sounds (various RDs, 250 'crosser) on my PC at home I could mail you, and a Yam M1 start-up/ride-past too

Hi, No. TZR125 forks are skinny 33mm jobbies, and the DT's are a bit fatter. And longer. And the wheel spindle is a different size. And the caliper mount's on the wrong side. Have you tried ebay or Partfinder? Mick.

That sounds like a good place to start- try a different coil and see what happens. It's crap when your bike knacks up on you, but keep at it and you'll get there. Mick.

It's the thing sitting next to the flywheel/magneto that sends the message to the cdi to fire. Looks like a little coil with 2 wires coming out of it. While you're poking around in there, you may also want to check on the condition of the flywheel/magneto and the source coil (where the CDI is charged from) and lighting/charging coils (which power the bike's system). Check for rust/corrosion and moisture. It may be worth giving everything a good blast of WD40. If they're suspect then you'd get a spark outside the cylinder but there wouldn't be enough current to fire the plug in a high compression, oily, wet atmosphere (the cylinder). Mick.