pilninggas

Well done Becky! cogratulations, my only advice is a bit cliched, just go steady as leaning to ride is an ongoing experience.

im intrigued - how does this certificate wok?

Very much depends on where you take it, if it has running isues i would take it to a motorcycle engineer rathe than a dealeship. But a full service with all fluids changed maybe £300ish. but jetting or the valve job is gonna cost!

that deale is George White (swindon/london), bear in mind that other dealers are doing R6s without all the free stuff but with yamahas 0% deal for fully £1000 less.

A number of posible causes spring to my mind: 1) worn main jets in the carbs. 2) Valve clearances out of adjustment. 3) Knackered plugs and/or coils 4) Sticking choke mechanism. Firstly see if from stone cold you can start it without operating the choke mechanism, if you can it is probably 1 or 4 (check choke mechanism by pulling the tank and seeing if it operates ok on the carbs), but is is likely gonna be main jets, hard to know for sure without seeing it run - is it rich when hot? does the engine bog-down when the throttle is blipped from idle whilst hot? you could get a factory pro or dynojet kit (factory pro better) or even replace with OE main jets and needles. If you have a workshop manual find the idle jet screws and check they are at the factory settings. Any number of motorcycle owners are presently grappling with the above problem! For (2), when wee the valves last done? if the bike has done more than say 20000miles and you do not know then assume they need to be done. again a workshop manual will tell you all you need to know. essentially the valves close up ove time due to 'valve seat recession' meaning the engines ability to breathe is stunted. this often exhibits itself as a quiet(ish) top end, reduced power and poor hot running. For (4) On any bike of unknown history, i would change the plugs as a minimum and the coils if it has starting problems or hot running issues (as you have) - this is because the coils beak down under cetain conditions. phew.... that is a lot of stuff, start with the plugs and give the carbs a once over.

these aew sensational looking bikes, but that is the main feature - they look like they could go 170mph to the untrained eye! but they are 4-stroke 125s (probably capable of 100mpg+), and even a power commander (if dynojet produce one for it) is not gonna get lots of power out of it. they are awesome little bikes if i was 17 again id be wanting one, but i was in a yam dealership yesterday and a lad was buying one with finance, the bike will be worth 1500 tops after a year on trade in yet he will pobably be making repayments for 3 o 4 years - its a mad world! if you have one enjoy it, but dont chase 2 or 3 more horsepower, whats the point?

make sure you port it - XSs ae good fo at least 85mph with a little port work why not fit something like this:http://www.thefastone.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=Demon XSs ae brilliant bikes, shame the front brake is laughable

well im no R6 expert, but i would go for the year for your model, remember yamaha may have improved the part, post manufacture if they suspect it is weak. may be work trying an R6 specific forum (there are several) o maybe chatting to a yamaha dealership mechanic near you. good luck

First things first, is this definitely a cam-chain rattle? are the carbs balanced, they can often cause a lot of noise that sounds rattly. If it is the tensioner then ultimately depending on usage the chain may have stretched to the point where the tensioner is not causing the cam-chain to be at the right tension. I would try a new tensioner first, but i would avoid aftermarket manual tensioners like the plague, unless you are racing. These are meant to be adjusted at very regular intervals, probably best not to bother unless you wanna have your tank off on a regular basis.

great bike, but £1000 for insurance?! you must be mad or loaded! go steady to start with!

well when i change pads (car or bike) i push the pistons back (the fluid returns to the mc) and put the new pads in, this avoids the need to bleed the system as no air will have entered. i then pump the brake lever to get new pads in proximity to the disk.

wearing soft shoes can lead to false neutrals, also old oil or the wrong oil can lead to false neutrals.

the diy repairs are only meant to be tempoary - i would have it checked by a pro - i had a piece of metal in the tread once that hadnt gone all the way thro, a pro-fitter and i inspected the inside of the tyre carefully and i drove it on til it wore out. intenal repairs are probably ok as the centripetal forces 'improve the seal' (i know that it is a glib interpretation!). A tyre at high speeds, can be experiencing tread forces in excess of 2000g!!!!! so repair carried out on the outside not only has to seal, but also resist this large loading.

the same thing happened not long after i did my test. the dsa brought in 33bhp/direct access. the press and the bike training industry said it was the end of biking, but here we are 13 years later and the only thing that has changed is a relative increase in insurance for novice riders. got stung by a bee on my test, but still passed 1st time - whhich was cool

more likely worn emulsion tubes, causing it to be rich as you open the throttle. means a carb strip down and the main jets replaced. they go oval with too much wear and dump fuel in.

hey disneygirl what is the mileage? maybe it needs an oil change, yam gearboxws do not like old oil. if it hasnt been changed for a while get it done/do it yourself

I had D207s on my FZR1000 for a while, they were DANGEROUS. I am an experiencd rider yet it went down twice on me. The tires would let go with no feel and unlike other tyres no chance to recover it. they are crap in the wet, the back-end of my bike would dance around all over the place. i think they only work on middle weight bikes not light or very heavy bikes. I also had an incident where they were fully warmed up and i stoppd for petrol. The front tyres must have stood in a patch of oil/diesel (like you get next to most petrol pumps) and being hot got contaminated by it, and 500metres up the road i nearly had a major off. they were cheap - £100 a pair, false economy tho' if you can get them swapped out now!

whats making it dear is your lack of bike ncb. try bikeinsurer.com

i would not fiddle at all or it may ruin the warranty, do as r1mad says and take it bak

i would be looking at a 600, but go for something 'cooking', a gsr600 will cost a fraction of an r6 to insure yet will be as good or better 90% of the time. Remember full on sports bikes,don't tend to be as good at commuting. You may find insurance limits you anyway. R6s tend to be silly money to insure. look at fazers, gsxf650s etc. these will be better bikes restricted as well, if you have to have a 33bhp bike. An R6 restricted seems a bit daft to me! good luck and at least you can buy in the winter for the best discount!

to avoid steaming, keep your vizor up at slow speeds! and good luck

my advice is not tospend anything like all of your budget on whatever you buy. £1500 is a lot of money for something you might not want after a year. get a 6 or 7 year old bike for 600, and keep the difference foryour next bike. i would be looking at a more basic 125, as that way if you drop it its less to repair and its far less depressing. btw, only 2 stroke 125s which are (properly)derestricted will give decent performance, but avoid aprialia RS125s like the plague secondhand. good luck and dont buy the 1st bike you see, have a good look around.

genuine parts, the best place is fowlers: http://www.fowlers.co.uk/ their postal parts service is apparently very good. i don't need to worry tho, as i live a 5 minute bicycle ride from them! they used to be crap, but now the blokes are very knowledgeable!

if it isnt a duff earth, it may be that the battery is u/s and is drawing too much current, this is causing a voltage drop and the lamps to flicker in step with the indicators. why not take the indicators off?