pilninggas

go through a quote and when you come to the security list scroll down and look at the locks listed, maybe: abus granite, kryptonite are examples, but check it carefully some models meet insurance standards some don't.

Might be better to buy an approved chain and padlock (look at the lists to find ones the insurance companies recognise), as you will be buying a bike that little scallywags like to pinch (all 125s are nickable), get the discount and then use it to chain your bike to something very durable. These kids will happily push a bike away with the alarm going off (dirty chavs!), but will walk away if you have a decent, sold-secure, thatcham approved heavy duty chain.

Welcome congratulations on your new bike! Running in, the key thing is not to put large loads on the engine, so not loads of revs (check the manual for the exact ceiling figure) and do not try to pull up a steep grade in top etc. Check with the dealer for ditance of running in, usually 500miles or maybe 1000kms. My advice is after that increase load revs to the 1000 mile mark. Yamaha boxes tend to be clucnky, more so until they get a bit of healthy wear in them, so i wouldnt worry. The motor is lifted from the R6, so is always gonna be a touch rev-hungry, i think you will get used to it. Most important than all this is,be safe!

9000-10000 pounds sterling

have u tried the divvy specific forum:http://www.bikersoracle.com/yamahadiversion/forum/ for an answer apologies if u have

Surely the XS650 has to be in there as it was Yamahas first real large capacity bike and without it they may remained a bit player compared to the other jap makers.

thats a bargain - who was that with?

to be fair, i rarely do all those life-savers now (i know i should, but shit happens) and as for using rear brake to control speed i never do. maybe just check it is clear to go and pull out, just check over your shoulder once you have completed the turn (but obviousl do all that stuff when you do the full test) ill probably be vilified for saying this. but a lot of that stuff they teach you is a load of junk

responsibilty of the buyer surely? i dont think you are liable, as you could be selling to a full licence holder. its legally a moped anyway so can be ridden on a CBT by a 16 year-old

Im not too far - bristol head u way from time-to-time, avoided it lately cos of the traffic hold-ups on the a40 (?)

yeah you're right, before my time! what i was getting at is that a 'modern' moped is limited to 30mph - in the Bristol Area, Avon and Somerset Constabulary had a purge on deistricted mopeds last year, as so many were being ridden blatatly beyond their restricted top speed; i think they crushed a few in the end!

StealthR6 did you get your bike insured yet?

..and thw definition of a moped is 49cc and limited to 30mph - be sue what you buy conforms.

I ride an FZr1000 and that looks like a sound basis fo a project - but be awae you may have to spend quite a bit for a full restoration. If it was me i would be looking to it over a year with a top-end rebuild, caliper rebuild (funnily enough thee are some refurbed gold calipes on ebay at the mo), cab rebuild and full suspension rebuild. plus new c&s kit, wheel beaings etc. Go for it, but get eady to use ebay a lot!

Hello, awesome looking rossi Rep, thats gonna turn a lot of heads

yes you can, but you will be limited to 33bhp for 2 years. can i just say if you feel you are experienced and want to do the test without loads of expence, you could get one of the good books on motorcycle riding (i had one when i was 16) which explains the test in detail and the techniques for passing. you could practise and then put yourself through the test and see how you get on.

dont panic!!!! if i have this corect the plug hole thread is dameged? if this is the case yu should be able to get it helicoiled, phone eound your local automotive engineers (should be about £50 tops)!

can i just say, the CBT is not a test, it is a competency evaluation - treat it like a training session and you are moe likely to acheive the levels of skill at your first attempt, and be certified to ride away!

Show to the examiner that you are very observant - do all the lifesavers, but dont over do it, remember to twist your head when you look in the mirrors (at changes in speed limit etc) so the examiner knows you are doing this and if you are taken to a 60 or 70mph limit road accelerate briskly upto the limit if it is safe to do so, to demonstrate that you are confident. +good luck

Welome, got any pics of this vrr? In tems of two-strokes, is it premix or oil-injection? My thoughts about two-strokes is to start it and warm it up for a minute befoe you ride off. This lessens the chance of it misfiing (known as four-stroking), change the plugs evey 1000 -1500 miles if you want it to start good everytime. good luck

mybe it was made in 92, but not registeed and used on the road til 94? my bike was made in 95 but put on the oad in 96, theefore it has a p - plate.

The key factor here is how long you intend to keep it - my guess is you will want a 125 in around a year? If you are gonna keep it for years and years (unlikely) maybe new is ok. but your mum is right. I think why not spend 600 of your budget and keep the rest for when you are 17. A lot of peeps have the new yzf125 on here maybe you will be able to buy new or secondhand in a year?

Yes DK are very well known, they usually run big ads in mcn etc. They are a dealer of PARALLEL IMPORTS, these are bikes which they have imported themselves. This is reason why it is 1000 cheaper. In essence what they do is buy it somewhere else in europe (often cyprus), they get a massve discount for buying many, then then export to the UK straight away (to avoid local taxes) and sell them here. It is cheaper, but be aware that you may not be covered by recall modifications etc - you would need to check with the dealer in question. It will not be classified as an official UK bike - occasionally this can affect insurance, but usually only if it is not to UK spec or was imported from outside of the EU (the states etc). Parallel imports used to be much cheaper, but the gap is closing and often UK bikes are just as cheap if you shop around. UK bikes may also come with a cash-back or other stuff. Other parallel dealers i can recall are KJM superbike and Taz.

yeah i do all mine myself, but i do know what the stealerships in the south west charge. if someone is capable and confident i would always advise them to do it themselves.

Are you sure this is not a GAP policy?