pilninggas

thats bad news, i went for a ride out last week and a guy high-sided his bike pulling away from a junction. At least youll just get a settlement from the insurance company and that should be quite quick. Are you gonna get another fazer?

thats a very good price, considering your age.

dunno if it interests any of you, yesterday i got an oxford boss alarm from george white's in swindon for £29.99. Shop soiled box, but other than that half of the normal price even on ebay. Nice 14mm shackle and a decent alarm, which isnt going to flatten my bike battery. looks nice and beefy used with my kryptonite chain.

ruddy hell thats quick! stealthy, did you get insurance on your R6? how much was it in the end?

knackered spark plug?

more great pics pls!!!!

i dont think it will, i just looked on the schematics on bikebandit.com and the part numbers are different and the nomenclature looks different in the picture.

not too bad, me and some other peeps rode to aberystwyth on sunday afternoon.

welcome to the site, i am also in bristol. Where to buy bike bits? lots of us have lots of different experiences when it comes to net sellers, i prefer ones where i know the shop actually exists; m and p/busters, wemoto and the fast one. I cant comment on suppliers of custom accessories, however m and p may be a good starting point, tho the custom riders on here may correct me.

get yourself a haynes manual and have a try yourself, if you can. plug £3, lead maybe £12. Should be an easy job on a DT. Where abouts are you? if you are near me, ill happily show you how to do it (im in bristol), edit: just saw you are in neath, if you can wait til saturday morning, i can come over and help you out (if you have a few tools). dealer would charge maybe £30 for this.

probably the spark plug and HT lead. This happened to me years ago, the spark plug was knackered (2-strokes chew plugs up) and the lead got wet, the insulating sheath of the HT lead broke-down (its resistance was reduced) and the HT opted to short strapght to the top of the engine rather that cause a spark at the plug. solution, new plug, HT lead and liberal dosing of silicon spray.

FZR1000s are notorious for this, what you are experiencing is worn main jets in the carburettors, they go oval letting more fuel in resulting in very rich running. is the tail pipe black with soot? thats an easy way to tell. google emulsion tubes or factory pro. if you are mechnically minded you could use a workshop manual to do this job, but remember you will need to set the float heights in the carbs, syncronise the carbs as well as replacing the main jets (along with the needles). You may also have to adjust the valve clearances. check out exup1000.co.uk for extra info.

been riding since i was 16, im 31 now, just tend to ride now when it suits me, though i do ride to work if its dry. i dont buy all this 'average biker' claptrap.

is this going to be a legendary thread? all i can say is lancashire lock up your sons!

who the fug would breastfeed a woman while shes driving?!?!?!?! seriously, i can bank on seeing a driver on a phone everyday. A van cut me up yesterday, the driver deep in conversation on his mobile blower, and only knew i was there when i rode alongside and did a massive backfire (bet that made his transit rattle).

looks great, how much is the insurance barwell?

picked the tdm up yesterday, did 200 miles today. What a revelation, how quick are these things on A and B roads? Had the back end hanked out a few times. This thing makes my fzr1000 look like a barge and the zx6r i had (briefly) seem gutless (torque-wise) and just a little bit silly. What a bike, i am amazed i got it for 800 and yet it seems flawless, ok top speed only 130mph, but it pulls like a train and handles so neutrally. Does any one know of any TDM forums? the only forum i can find is carpe-tdm and its locked. i havent smiled inside a helemt this much in yonks

sorry about your loss dude. its seems like a bloody epidemic, particularly in london. if i had a new bike id be fitting it with a tracker (especially as they work out cheaper than alarm).

id be surprised if the DVLA will respond, firstly they dont give a toss, secondly you will be riding outside of the juristiction of UK law if you go to the R.O.I. You need to go the websites of the republic and see what they say about foreign nationals driving in eire. Your insurance should have come with policy documents, my guess is you are allowed 30-90 days in EEA countries with out additional premiums provided local laws allow you to drive there i suspect you cannot drive into the republic on a provional license, though im happy to be corrected.

well apart from your poor choice of font size; it kinda sounds like an interesting concept (lots of power in that chassis). Dont understand the Drag-bike thing, but if you can get lots of power it might make for a very cool bike on an outside Kart circuit. you wont get 115mph in the real world, aerodynamic drag is a square of speed, you need around 35-45bhp to get to those speeds regardless of weight, aerodynamics (most bikes have a cd of 0.75 or higher) etc. I'm sure the guys you work with are pretty up on these issues tho, im jealous, id love to tweak engines for a living.

it will go, its just a bloody kerfuffle. use string to pull it through and as you do so get someone to bounce the rear suspension.

syncronising carbs is a series of adjustments to make sure they are working together - if they are out of sync each cylinder of the engine will be trying to rotate at a different speed and so the idle and off-idle throttle will be poor. What you are trying to do is set the static opening of the throttle butterfly of each carb, so that all 4 carbs create the same vacuum. the tool for doing this is a set of 4 vacuum gauges (you can use a set of 2 and do each side and then the centre), which allows you to see the vacuum of each manifold (and therefore the adjustment of each carb) and using the manufacturers baseline vacuum (i guess around 200 mm Hg for a yzf 750, though you'd need to check in a workshop manual), adjust all four carbs so the vacuum is the same +/- 5mm Hg. On standard carbs you would use a screwdriver, however i have never adjusted flatslides on a big-bike, so i can't say for certain that it would be the same. having an fzr1000 (very similar to the yzf), i can tell you to budget a couple of hours if you have never done the job before. the access for the vacuum is below the carbs and is a pain to get to. you will also need an auxilliary tank to supply fuel while you are setting the vacuum (i have in the past used the bikes tank, sat on foam on a workmate with a metre of fuel pipe). Id read up a bit on flatslides if i were you, i cant claim to be an expert on them, but they have a steep transitional off-idle character and therefore may be a tricky to balance/syncronise. good luck.

you might want to start a new thread for this or search old threads. i would avoid using 'sandpaper' (glasspaper) as even the fine stuff will leave scratches. You need to use a silicon carbide / wet and dry paper, in progressively finer stages until you are down to 1200 or finer. then polish with mop wheels and polishing soap. then solvol or similar. remember once you have polished a frame, you will spend a lot of time keeping it shiny. if it gets water on it that will leave spots you have to get out. you can laquer it, but often the laquer yellows after a short time. look at various bike forums about the pros/cons of doing this, as once you start and remove the anodise, you cant really go back.

well bee looking for a bike since my new zx6r got written off. saw an advert for a high mileage but tidy-ish tdm850 this morning on an R-plate. popped along for a look and a ride, got it for £800 with 4 months tax and test. back on the road soon and it gives me chance to fiddle with my fzr1000 again. anyone got any comments on tdms?

bloody hell, what an awful day for you guys! hope the bike isnt to much agro for you to sort, and hope your mates is ok too.