pilninggas

surely no-one believes this story.... ...i mean come on the police actually replying? pure fiction!

welcome to the forum. Can't help with your query, however you have posted it in forum help (this is for problems/questions about using the forum) - you might get more success posting in workshop, or more likely in the custom section. mervyn

www.visorshop.com?

i work at the school next to the EBC factory in bristol (european friction industries) and don't want to sh*t on them, but i put a set of EBC green on my EXUP a couple of years ago and they were dreadful; didn't fit properly and seemed to have little in the way of stopping power, it really was white knuckle ride - would only use them again with a degree of caution.

check out a pic of my bike in front of the suspension bridge: i know what you mean about top-gun moments at the airport, i live 10 minutes from there and often go down the A38, the planes really are just above the road, its quite a sight and noise.

i used to live by the severn bridge, myself and a mate went over to mid-wales one day (on L-plates, 15/16 years ago) and his bike broke down. So i gave him lift back pillion. I went on the cycle track and as you will not know, it is quite bumpy. Where the track changes from deck section-to-deck section, and i was doing 55mph (mad i know). Anyway i went over one of these changes and the bike pretty-much took off and my mate nearly came off the back. When i stopped to rejoin the road on the english side, he gave me a right good wack!!!! As for the rest of your post, totally agree on my rxs 100 i went all over the place, never had a problem doing 250-300 miles in a day, though once i passed my test it was easier as i could used the motorways if i needed to.

be careful buying 'lightweight' sprockets, an aluminium inner with steel teeth is fine, but an -all aluminium sprocket will not last 5-minutes, as ally is just too soft.

just buy the sprockets with the chain as a set, if you want a different ratio, give wemoto or fowlers a call and see what they say for recommended sprockets. What sort of adjustment is on the shock? if its rotary, just turn it to apply more compression of the spring, it should go back to lowest setting eventually if it is the 'ramped' type. In the tool kit should be the spanner to do it - i say this having never seen one on a yzf750r, i'm just guessing!!!

ok, well first off no.1 is an iris chain, they are cheap to buy and i had one on my FZr1000, they do not last long, mine would stretch significantly on one afternoon ride, i would not recommend it for a yzf750. No.2 and 3 are boy triple SSS, these are similar to iris, but maybe slightly better. The standard chain for the yzf750 is a 532, this is funny size and so the above will be 530, which is normal conversion to do (as long as you do not run standard 532 sprockets, unlikely) No.3 is a Race chain and is 520, this is a lot lighter than 532/530, which makes it good for racing as it means there is less unsprung mass, however being a lighter gauge it will not last long (probably longer than an iris 530 though!!). personally none of the above is probably the best option, i used to buy cheap chains until i had one snap on me at 90mph (it decimated the swingarm and nearly took me out) and so i would say spend the extra on DID, EK, tsubaki etc. M & P, wemoto or local bike shop are probably the best sort of places to get a chain and sprocket set. Many chains are described as Heavy-duty, physically the links maybe heavy duty in size, but the steel that is used may be inferior and so they are weaker and less-robust than some high-end medium duty chains hope this helps. merv p.s. i remember the last chain i bought was from a bearing factor who sold me a heavy-duty DID chain by-the-link for £45ish and i bought the sprockets from my local yam dealer (fowlers).

a useful start point: http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&source=hp&q=yamaha%20fz1%20fly%20screen&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=

the jets may well be worn at that sort of mileage - they go oval as the needle vibrates in the orifice (ooh 'er missus) and ovals the hole making the bike run rich. Not done the vlaves on a 'cat, but have done em on an exup...usual stuff its the time-hassle of getting to them thats the biggest problem. of course you could sort both these things and not solve the problem. You might just have to investigate both. For jets/needles google a company called allens.

probably worn-jets/needles. could also be valve clearances.

well if its drawing power when it shouldn't do or its drawing to much then its possible. the first is more likely. surprising its having that effect, but bike electrics can be very sensitive to constant small current draw.

Whats the battery open-circuit voltage after the bike has cut-out? if it's less than 12v then maybe the battery has had it. sometimes the battery will appear to be okay, but the cells are knackered.

a quick check is that the battery connection are tight. a couple of bikes i have had over the years have had these symptoms and it has been the terminal connections being slight loose.

to be honest i think they are a load of old rubbish!!! they use a different needle and jet and basically overfuel the bike, this does provide a bit more power, but don't ever fit one if the bike is not running right, it will not make it better!! If you needle jets are worn-out by direct-replacements or use a factory-pro kit (i have never used one but they seem better). I fitted a dynojet kit to a bike and the jets had visibly ovaled in 2000miles! oh and mpg went from early forties to low 20s.

yeah, that's pretty grey!!! rare as hen's teeth i should think!! why not give BAT motorcycles a call, they have always been grey specialists (albeit sodding dear) merv

what exactly are you looking for? a grey import? your best bet maybe to use biketrader.co.uk for a grey, other than that why not look for a UK/parallel model? mervyn

Knackered petrol maybe? if the petrol has been in there for a few weeks it might be shot.

no-one elses as replied to this topic, so i thought i would..... .....go for it. i reckon the mt03 would be a great touring bike. good economy and simple design. don't worry about all the other stuff. i bought an xj6 in spetember, but i have reasonable experience of continental touring and know fully the xj6 will be upto it. my main criteria for touring are , comfortable (high bars and with upright back), good economy and reliable. you bike should be all of these also. my last trip i went down to bavaria on my knackered fzr1000 (my tdm850 had been written off by a car driver a week before) and whilst waiting for the ferry, i spoke to some nice people who have full touring bikes (big honda things) who had been to normany, fair play, but it was very ironic!!! my parting advice is run light and don't be afraid to tour alone. use the excellent hostel network abroad (if thats where you are going) to keep costs low. good luck

Hi Mike, just my 2pence, whichever R1 you get i will be jealous! What i would say is that you may be better off with injection than with with carbs. The reason is that lots of big yams with carbs tend to suffer with wear of the needle jets and making them run right can be a real headache. Injection should be okay, and if you can find one with a power commander then hopefully any glitches will have been dialled out. Other than that check the usual stuff, due to the bikes pedigree.

its probably self-priming as it is EFI.

danlee, im somewhat confused...you say both spark plugs were ok, is it not single spark plug? maybe i am wrong!!!

for valentines day: Roses are red, but the stems are all twisted, so bend over my dear, You're about to get fisted!

you can get it re-registered to you by calling 01932 358100, they will charge you i think. hope that helps ....also welcome to yoc