pilninggas

i deleted, i thought all he wanted was a M20x1.5 sump plug, which are all over the place and cheap as chips personally i agree on the sump repair - id also consider an internal braze as the sump only needs to be oil tight and maintain intergrity. a crack shouldnt be a problem if repaired carefully.

sorry

I am considering one, but won't use it to commute if i do, My H**da NC will stay on commuter duties. I'd love to go hairing up Col D L'Iseran on one.

To be fair extra tyre = less wear, same no. of brake pads so no extra cost, extra fork seals so less wear (my FZ1 is on the original fork seals at 50k, so these should go on forever), agree on cost though [hopefully yam will follow their own lead on MT price point]. For what? Massive front end grip and stability. If the front end slides on 2 wheels often it means you are off, on this thing it's just going to mean that you understeer. This thing is going to allow the rider to push on really hard, on the road, where nornally you'd be backing off. I think it is part of the wave of innovation in japanese motorcycle design which is seeing the big four (although Sook to a lesser extent) coming up with more product diversity.

I want one. I can't imagine many other vehicles being quicker than this up an Alpine pass.

I'd check the coolant firat - it may be low. Might be a knackered stat, which isnt opening when it should [maybe 90ish]. If in doubt replace it.

it would be interesting to see what actually happened to the old caliper. Certainly seems like the opposing slider was sticking preventing the pads closing down on the disc.

Ahh right, piss-pebbles. Get better soon.

what happened to you?

personally id stick with the FZ07 (mt07 here) as they are awesome bits of kit. If is it fairly new, why move on until youve done some decent miles. The R6 and R1 are both state of the art, but very focused - perhaps for more poke get an MT09 (FZ09 over there). Prolly better performance than an R6, but less extreme than an R1. I'd be enjoying the 07 before i got my head turned, but i do tend to do the miles on bikes i own.

Well start a new thread then. It aint rocket surgery.

This thread is a decade old.

Welcome to the forum. The TDM900 is a very solid motorcycle and is well designed. It's EFI so doesn't have some of the fuelling issues of late 90s big Yamahas (The TDM850 is a bit mixed on this point). Obviously the clearances need checking every 25,000 miles - it's not bad job though. The camchains are not an issue, unless big miles are covered, as with all large twins and singles they do stretch on bikes over 65,000miles. If I was buying one (I have owned an 850, but not a 900, but have owned 7 post 2000 yams) I'd check suspension condition and function, exhaust condition and of course service record. The 900 benefits from a straight forward modification to cold-start system, i'd take look on carpe-tdm for more info on this mod. All TDMs are brilliant motorcycles, the post 96 850s and later 900s with 270degree firing order are sublime. Let us know how you get on.

I can't make it either - massive amount of work to do for the new school year that will keep me busy all weekend. Hope the weather is good, the fumes are acrid and Kev behaves himself.

I got them in my FZ1S, they have been in there for 3 or 4 years. I also run Osram Nightbreakers in my FZR1000. Both are 'less yellow' than OEM bulbs, with more fill of white light ahead of you. I like them and for comparison I have had HID bulbs in the past. Upgraded, quality bulbs are the best current solution. They are also the only truly legal solution in many territories. Let us know how you find them.

I'm 90% certain that the beam pattern is not biased in either direction. It is aimed from the factory centrally. I know my XJ6n the beam pattern was centred directly in front of the bike, with no obvious throw to the left. I rode it around Europe without masking the beam as I felt happy that it was not needed. I appreciate the french registering system may want more than my opinion though! Cross referencing the part between uk and french variants indicates this is the case: https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacturer/yamaha/bike/xj6n/year/2011/model/xj6n-20sb-2011-050-c

Once you get the bug it bites. I've done 14 trips into Europe. Each was superb

I have to disagree with you there. If the lever is steel [be it plain, painted, chromed tec], then it can be bent back. To the OP use an adjustable spanner to get purchased on it to bend it. If it wont, go easy don't force it however. I've done this many times and never had an issues.

MCN have a secondhand review of the Box-eye 600 Fazer [FZS600] and mentions this site as a place for info, as well as the FOC-U forum.

I think the '17 R6 is a cracking looking machine, the R1M inspired front makes it the only really contemporary 600 imo. The old model was looking very long in the tooth. It's also a serious fast road tool. If i could justify a sports bike, I think the new R6 would be it. Enjoy and take time to get to know it well, before pushing it to the ragged edge.

Very cool: and:

Hold back the night, turn off the lights, i wanna dream about ya, dream about ya baby.

i used all sorts to clean stainless headers with mixed results. autosol works well but is time consuming. alloy wheel cleaner is quite good too, but can be expensive. Just tried this [harpic 10x a pound a bottle], fuck my boots, it works a treat. headers now shiny stainless steel [after a hard winter of commuting] in about 10 mins. anyone who is sceptical should give it a whirl. genuinely astonishing.

renntec do crash bars for the xj6, that are well designed and should provide good protection for stunting. I also think yamaha did an oem crash bar set too.

when ive done wet clutches I always soak the plates in jaso ma spec oil overnight. The reason being is that the friction material must be oiled for cooling and for optimum performance. My guess is, that it was assembled with dry plates and not even allowed idle to 20 mins and then to sit, so the plates could take up oil. Not doing this, makes the clutch grabby, short-lived and can make some plates stick to the steel plates. Also they may have fitted poor quality aftermarket clutch plates. On a bike with monster torque, only OEM should be put in there. It needs pulling apart and careful inspection. It is highly likely the plates will now need replacment.