pilninggas

i talk to them and see what they say. im sure booking for camping will be fine, it'll just be B&B that may be an issue. there are also places around Bwlch, Brecon and Hay-o-W ill look at.

okay, so ive been thinking about this,, I actually quite fancy some camping too, so what im suggesting is rather than stay at my place, we stay at a pub/campsite/B&B in Monmouthshire; there is one close to the border with England. Im going to call them next week and see if they like bikers. It's the rising sun in pandy fyi.

22nd and 23rd June? Let me know if these dates are good or bad for you all.

Sorry ive been away with work. Ill work out a date/

Late June?

it's usually about a dozen of us. oh and Kev.

yeah it's fine. i live at the far end.

np26 5jd

A weekend in June [later in the month] is the best time, certainly this years meet in June trumped septembers in Yorks. Longer days and warmer too. I also live in a weird slightly isolated space, so we could maybe have a saturday night BBQ with outside music and over-revved 2 strokes.

Im open to hosting an 2019 meet at Chez pilninggas (or as I call it the Shite-house). I'm in Monmouthshire. I have a few rooms, so not everyone would need to camp, but there is space outside for quite a few tents. There is even a B&B at the end of the road for anyone who doesnt want my cooking. I would be happy to lead a ride into mountainous wales on Day 1 (saturday); the Brecon Beacons are 25 miles away and offer a full day of twists and turns and lead a ride back up north via the the Marches on Day 2 (via either The Malverns or upto OK Diner on the A49- the Northern Contigent can ride up home from there), so we could all go our own ways after lunch. Let me know if that works.

oh yeah, looks like an intake resonance box or balancer. I'd try running it with the connectors blocked off. If that doesnt work well maybe a link pipe? You could make something to imitate it.

The airbox is the [usually plastic] housing that contains the airfilter. Typically it'll have an access panel to get to the filter or can be separated to get to the filter. It has two orifices [oo-er] one that lets free air in and one that connects to the carburettor or throttle body. edit: Hang on the manifold shouldnt connect directly to the airbox. there should be a carb in between. Here: https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4155904/xt600e-4pt7-1998-050-a/intake From engine: manifolds, then twin carbs, then tubes, then airbox.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-lancashire-44671875 I bet that was a stray spark of 2 stroke carbon out of the spannies of Kev's chameleon.

Isnt the Spy range of alarms just a badged chinese generic alarm with some flash looking keyfobs? similar spec'd chinese alarms are available for less than £20. They are useful for alerting you if someone tampers with the bike. They do work and are an okay deterrent for less savvy thieves. However generally with chinese alarms the 'ecu' is rarely properly ingress protected and the wiring loom isnt the best. If you do install one, do not install the remote start/immobiliser bypass, not only is the insurance company unlikely payout if your bike gets nicked, but it requires the bikes loom to be hacked and the probability of previously mentioned fragile design lends itself to a FTP. Also be aware that cheap alarms, diy installed rarely qualify for insurance discounts. If you must have an alarm [high risk area or other vulnerability] go for a brand/model that will get a real insurance discount and uses the oem alarm loom link. Personally if i had to have one i go for the Yamaha-approved unit and pay the premium to have the franchise dealer fit it or go for a meta and find your local agent. Expect to pay a decent wedge either way.

Going into the red is definitely the quick way to omghgf or worse a banana shaped head. A range of kawasaki thermoswitches fit and some kick in at 94/95 unlike the yam stuff that starts at 99.

No one has responded, so I thought I would. As with all Euro3,4 bikes, the later the version generally the better the fuelling. I rode an early Mt09 and it only surged with very light throttle at steady speed. I didnt find it intrusive. Whatever you buy, haggle hard as there are lots of used ones for sale. many early ones are running better rear shocks, so maybe worth looking for one with the upgrade but not paying [much] extra. They are well made.

Totally agree with Slice ^^ (Martin, who knew Brum, sunday lunchtime could be fun?) Thanks to Andy for the routes, great fun. Nice to see you all again. Hopefully Tommy has things A1 asap. See you all again soon.

what's the postcode of the campsite? i'll be coming up on Saturday morning (I reckon ill be there by 10am).

cheers, go for it. I'll be there. actually dont. just book me for the 9th. I just realised i have a mate's birthday on the 8th. i'll come up very early on the saturady morning.

if it is the second weekend of june, i should be on to join you guys. whats the booking procedure for cramping?

You might want to go to the newbie section and introduce yourself. A clicking starter relay is usually flat/knacker battery.

I have used Rox anti vibration risers before. They work pretty well. I've also filled handlebars with leadshot. Both can reduce handvibes a great deal.

if the butterflies are 'too closed' then it wont start with or without easystart as not enough air will be getting in. If the butterflies are too open then it will start and the revs will jump up. I always statically balance carbs by using a sliver of aluminium tin-can as a shim and set them to all be closed by the same amount using the sim as the calibrated reference winding the individual butterfly down until the shim is a sliding fit; the idle adjust is then wound down till it runs at the required idle speed. Any clean and newly installed back of carbs should be statically balance imho - dynamic balancing can be done at the next service.

If it starts but only with extra fuel (easystart or whatever) then it means that not enough fuel is getting on cold start. The initial response by people is that it must be choke, but in my experience choke will be okay (clean it though as the pintle or whatever may be gummed), but having rebuilt a lot of carbs it is usually blocked/gummed idle jets. I'd look here first. If it will run then clearances are further down the list and are probably best left until other things are sorted. btw, cleaning the carbs means different things to different people, any bike that has had a long lay up needs the carbs forensically cleaned. seals should be replaced with viton and diaphrams replaced. Good luck, they are nice bikes

i see what you mean, but as 130cm is 1.3m they would have to be some seriously long forks to have that sort of fill point or air gap! almost certainly 130cc as stated above.